In this guide, we undertake a technical exploration of the Raspberry Pi Pico, utilizing the MicroPython Programmer Starter Kit. This project is a tutorial for those looking to understand microcontroller applications and circuit design.

We will cover three core aspects:

1. Thonny IDE Setup: Initial steps include setting up Thonny, a robust IDE for Pico programming. This section details installation, configuration, and a basic LED blink test to verify the setup.
2. Breadboard Circuit Prototyping: Focus shifts to constructing a water-level sensor circuit using a breadboard. This part emphasizes the practical application of circuit theory and component functionality.
3. MicroPython Scripting: The final segment dives into writing and uploading a MicroPython script to the Pico. It encompasses code creation for sensor data interpretation and auto-execution of the script on device boot.

Setting Up Thonny for the Raspberry Pi Pico

The Raspberry Pi Pico is a versatile microcontroller that offers a perfect blend of power and simplicity for beginners and seasoned enthusiasts in the world of microcontrollers. One needs a reliable and user-friendly Integrated Development Environment (IDE) to harness its potential, and Thonny stands out as an ideal choice.

Downloading and Installing Thonny

The journey begins with downloading and installing Thonny. You can find a comprehensive guide on the Raspberry Pi Projects website (https://projects.raspberrypi.org/en/projects/getting-started-with-the-pico), which offers a step-by-step tutorial tailored for the Pico platform. This resource simplifies the process, ensuring a smooth setup for users of all skill levels.

Introduction to Breadboarding

A breadboard is an essential tool for prototyping electronic circuits. It allows you to create and test circuit designs without soldering, making it easy to modify and troubleshoot. Breadboards feature rows of interconnected holes where you can insert components like wires, resistors, LEDs, and microcontrollers.

(https://erc-bpgc.github.io/handbook/electronics/Basic_Electronic_Components/breadboard/)]

Understanding the Water Level Sensor Circuit

The circuit uses two LEDs to indicate the water level: green for an adequate level and red for a low level. This circuit utilizes the Raspberry Pi Pico and a set of components to detect water levels through a simple probe.

Components of the Circuit

• Raspberry Pi Pico
• Breadboard
• Jumper wires
• 2 LEDs (one green, one red)
• 3 Resistors (220 Ω for each LED, 10k Ω for the sensor)
• Two pieces of exposed wire (for the probe)

Circuit Assembly Instructions

• Raspberry Pi Pico Setup:

1. Place the Raspberry Pi Pico on the breadboard, ensuring the micro USB port is accessible. 

• LED Connections:

1. Green LED (Good Water Level Indicator):
2. Connect the anode (longer leg) to a GPIO pin (e.g., GP15) on the Pico.
3. Connect the cathode (shorter leg) to one end of a 220 Ω resistor.
4. Connect the other end of the resistor to a ground (GND) pin on the Pico.

1. Red LED (Low Water Level Indicator):
2. Follow the same steps for the red LED using a different GPIO pin (e.g., GP14). 

• Water Sensor Probe:

1. Connect one wire (Probe 1) to a GPIO pin (e.g., GP28) on the Pico and add a 10k Ω pull-up resistor between this GPIO pin and the 3.3V pin.
2. Connect the other wire (Probe 2) directly to a ground (GND) pin.

Functioning of the Circuit

When the water level is sufficient, the circuit completes through the water, allowing current to flow and illuminating the green LED. The circuit breaks when the level is low, triggering the red LED to light up, indicating a low water level.

Writing and Uploading the Code onto the Raspberry Pi Pico

Creating a New Script in Thonny

To begin programming your Pico, open Thonny and start a new script:

1. Launch Thonny on your computer.
2. Click 'File' in the menu, then select 'New'. This opens a new script window.

The MicroPython Script for the Water Level Sensor

Copy the following MicroPython script into your new script window in Thonny. This script controls the LEDs based on the water level detected by the sensor probe.

Saving and Running the Script on the Pico

To save the script to your Pico:

1. Ensure your Pico is connected to your computer via USB.
2. In Thonny, click 'File,' then 'Save As.'
3. In the dialog box, choose your Pico from the list of locations.
4. Name your file (e.g., 'watersensor.py') and click 'Save.'

To make the script run automatically when the Pico is powered on:

1. Name the script to 'main.py' before saving it onto the Pico. The Pico looks for a file named 'main.py' to run on boot.

Final Steps and Testing

After saving the script as 'main.py' on your Pico, disconnect and reconnect the Pico to power. The script should now automatically run, controlling the LEDs based on the water level detected by your sensor.

Advancing Your Skills with the Raspberry Pi Pico and MicroPython

As we continue to explore the expansive capabilities of the Raspberry Pi Pico, we invite you to join us in this ongoing series of technically challenging and rewarding projects. Each upcoming project is an opportunity to refine your hardware assembly and MicroPython programming skills.

Take this step towards mastering microcontroller technology with the Raspberry Pi Pico. Engage with us in future projects to expand your knowledge and contribute to the evolving landscape of microcontroller-based solutions.

Lithophane Printed in Inland Filament White PLA: https://www.microcenter.com/product/485641/inland

Printed with the Creality K1: https://www.microcenter.com/product/666007/creality

In this edition, we're exploring the fascinating world of 3D printing with Blender, a tool revered for its vast capabilities yet often perceived as daunting by beginners. Our focus today is to demystify this powerful platform, demonstrating how to create lithophanes. Let's prove that Blender's depth is manageable, especially for enthusiastic 3D modelers like you!

Getting Started in Blender

Before we begin the modeling process, let's get comfortable with the Blender environment. If you haven't already, download and install Blender. Upon launching the software, you'll find yourself in a versatile, feature-rich workspace.

• Workspace Overview: Several key areas compose Blender's interface: the 3D view, where you shape your model; toolbars filled with various modeling tools; and panels for modifying object properties.
• Starting a New Project: Create a new file; a default cube will greet you, serving as an excellent starting point.

Understanding the Basics of Blender

Blender combines intuitive design with a vast array of modeling features. Let's get familiar with the basics crucial for your lithophane creation.

• Navigating the Interface: Spend a moment hovering over icons and menus. Tooltips and labels will help you quickly grasp the functionality of each element.

Designing Your Lithophane

Now, let's begin shaping your lithophane. This journey transforms a simple image into a tangible 3D print, revealing the power of Blender in crafting intricate designs.

Starting with an Image Blender simplifies the start of your lithophane journey. Navigate to 'Add' → 'Image' → 'Images as Planes' and select your desired image. This method ensures your image is tangible within the Blender workspace, ready for transformation. If you do not have the 'Images as Planes' add-on enabled, you must add it before moving to the next step.

Setting the Scene Once your image is in place, change your view to the "Z" plane for a top-down view. Adjust the viewport shading to check the image's orientation and overall appearance.

Subdividing the image: Subdivide your image to achieve the necessary level of detail. This process divides your image into smaller segments, allowing for finer details in the final print.

Adding Modifiers In creating a lithophane with Blender, the Subdivision Surface and Displace modifiers are key. The Subdivision Surface modifier increases mesh density, which is crucial for detailed lithophane textures. The Displace modifier then uses the image's grayscale values to extrude this mesh, creating the 3D lithophane effect. Understanding and precisely adjusting these modifiers is essential for accurate lithophane creation.

        Subdivision Surface Modifier

1. Selecting the Modifier: With your image plane selected in Blender, navigate to the modifier panel, typically found on the right side of the interface. Here, you'll find an option to add new modifiers to your object.
2. Subdivision Surface Modifier: Click the 'Add Modifier' dropdown and select 'Subdivision Surface' from the list. This modifier subdivides the faces of the mesh to create a smoother surface.
3. Configuring: After adding the Subdivision Surface modifier, adjust its settings to achieve the desired level of detail. Increase the 'Subdivisions' value under both the 'View' and 'Render' settings. A typical starting point is setting these values to 3, but you can adjust them based on the level of detail you want and how much your computer can handle. 

Displace Modifier

• Selecting the Displace Modifier: With the subdivided image plane still selected, return to the modifier panel and add a new modifier. This time, choose 'Displace' from the dropdown list. The Displace modifier will allow you to use the image's pixel values to displace the mesh vertices, creating the lithophane effect physically. 

• Configuring the Displacer: Change the 'Coordinates' from 'Local' to 'UV' in the Displace modifier settings. This ensures that the displacement will follow the UV map of the image. 

• Adjusting the Strength: Set the 'Strength' of the displacement. You can start with a value of around 0.02 and adjust it to achieve the desired depth of the lithophane. Remember, the higher the value, the more pronounced the displacement will be.

• Setting the Texture: In the Displace modifier, you must assign the texture (the image you use for the lithophane). Click on 'New' to create a new texture, then go to the texture panel (typically a tab next to the modifiers panel) to open it. Select the exact image you used for the lithophane. 

Finalizing: Apply both modifiers to lock in your lithophane's details. This step transitions your project from a digital model to a print-ready design.

Extruding the Outer Edge

• Entering Edit Mode: With your lithophane model selected, enter Edit Mode by pressing 'Tab' or selecting Edit Mode from the mode menu in the 3D view header.
• Selecting the Outer Edge: Zoom in to one of the corners of your lithophane. Hold 'Alt' and click on one of the outer edges. If your model's edges are correctly connected, this should select the entire outer loop. 

• Extruding the Edge: Once the outer edge is selected, extrude it to create a border. Press' E' to extrude, then right-click to confirm the extrusion without moving it.
• Scaling the Extrusion: To create the border, you must scale the extruded edge. Press' S' to scale and then shift 'Z' to exclude the Z-axis from scaling, ensuring the border only expands outward in the plane of the lithophane. Adjust the size to your preference. 

Adding a Rear Face

• Selecting the Rear Edge: After creating the border, you need to close the back of the lithophane. Rotate your view to see the back of the lithophane. Select the rear edge loop that you just extruded using the same method as before (holding 'Alt' and clicking).
• Flattening the Rear Face: You can use the' Scale' function to ensure the rear face is flat and even. Press' S', then 'Z', and type '0'. This flattens the extruded part along the Z-axis. 

• Closing the Back: To close the back of the lithophane, you will need to create a face. While the rear edge loop is still selected, press 'F' to make a new face. This fills in the selected loop, closing off the back of the lithophane.

Scaling and Thickness Adjustment: Scale your model to the desired size. Adjust the thickness – a crucial step for the perfect balance between durability and light transmission.

Adding a Border (Optional) For a polished look, consider extruding the edges to create a neat border. This step adds an aesthetic and functional edge to your lithophane.

Final Touches: Ensure your model's normals are correctly oriented (Alt+N) and apply smooth shading for a refined finish.

Blender is a treasure trove for 3D printing enthusiasts, and we hope this guide empowers you to explore its potential. Remember, the complexity of the tool doesn't overshadow its accessibility. With each step, your confidence in navigating Blender's interface will grow, unlocking possibilities for your 3D printing projects.

Keep an eye out for upcoming issues, and feel free to share your ideas for future projects in the comments below. As always, Happy Printing!

As with any rapidly advancing technology, the growth of 3D printing has been challenging. While the hardware and printing processes have become more accessible and user-friendly, the realm of design and modeling remains a complex frontier. For many, the journey from conceptualization to a tangible 3D-printed object is fraught with obstacles. The intricacies of creating unique designs, ensuring structural integrity, and optimizing for printability can be daunting tasks.

Enter Artificial Intelligence (AI). As the challenges in 3D design have grown, so has the potential of AI to address them. With its ability to process vast amounts of data and recognize patterns, AI offers a promising solution to some of the most pressing design challenges in 3D printing. By leveraging AI for image and 3D model generation, we can simplify the design process, making it more intuitive and accessible. Whether it's optimizing a design for printability, generating intricate patterns, or even predicting potential structural issues, AI stands poised to revolutionize how we approach 3D printing.

 Idea Generation and Model Creation in 3D Printing

For all its promise and potential, 3D printing has challenges, especially in the initial stages of idea generation and model creation. We can broadly categorize these challenges into two main areas: the creative and the technical.

The Creative Challenge

Every artist, designer, and creator knows the feeling of staring at a blank canvas, waiting for inspiration to strike. In 3D printing, this creative block can be even more pronounced. Technology's limitless possibilities can sometimes be overwhelming, leading to indecision and stagnation. How does one decide what to create when almost anything is possible? Moreover, the pressure to produce unique and innovative designs can further exacerbate this creative paralysis. While the world of 3D printing is vast and varied, the quest for originality remains a constant challenge for many enthusiasts.

The Technical Challenge

Once past the hurdle of idea generation, the next challenge that often arises is translating that idea into a tangible 3D model. Traditional 3D modeling software, while powerful, comes with a steep learning curve. The myriad tools, options, and settings can be daunting for seasoned professionals and newcomers. While essential, concepts like mesh topology, UV mapping, and parametric design can be complex and hard to grasp. For many, the intricacies and nuances of the modeling process can quickly overshadow the excitement of bringing an idea to life.

Furthermore, even after mastering the basics, ensuring a design is aesthetically pleasing and printable presents another layer of complexity. To ensure a successful print, you must meticulously consider factors like overhangs, supports, and wall thickness.

3D printing opens up a world of possibilities, but the journey from idea to printed object presents creative and technical challenges. However, as we'll explore in the subsequent sections, emerging technologies like AI are poised to offer solutions, bridging the gap between imagination and realization.

Breathing Life into Ideas

In the face of the challenges presented by idea generation and model creation in 3D printing, Artificial Intelligence emerges as a beacon of innovation. Image generation is one of AI's most groundbreaking applications to date. This technology is not just about creating images; it's about breathing life into ideas, offering a glimpse into the vast expanse of design possibilities that lie ahead.

How AI Image Generation Works

At its core, AI image generation leverages deep learning models, pulling from sources and artists across the web to produce visual content. Given a simple prompt or idea, these models can generate many design variations, allowing users to visualize, refine, and iterate on their concepts. Imagine inputting a vague statement like "futuristic chair" and having the AI present you with myriad unique chair designs, each distinct in its form and function.

Benefits in the 3D Printing Landscape

The integration of AI image generation into the 3D printing workflow offers a multitude of benefits:

Rapid Prototyping: AI can significantly accelerate creativity and initial design visualization. Designers can quickly move from concept to prototype, iterating on the AI-generated designs to achieve the desired outcome.

Tailored Designs: By feeding the AI with specific parameters or constraints, users can obtain designs tailored to their requirements, be it a particular aesthetic, function, or material compatibility.

AI image generation is a testament to the future of design in the 3D printing world. Seamlessly merging technology and creativity paves the way for a new era of innovation, where ideas are not just visualized but brought to life in previously unimagined ways.

Simplifying the Modeling Process

The journey from a design idea to a printable 3D model is often intricate and time-consuming. However, this process transforms with AI-driven 3D model generation, making the modeling phase more streamlined and efficient.

How AI Facilitates 3D Model Generation

AI's prowess in 3D model generation stems from its ability to interpret and extrapolate from provided data, images, sketches, or simple textual prompts. For instance, given a 2D image of an object, AI can predict its three-dimensional structure, generating a detailed 3D model that captures the object's nuances and intricacies. This automation eliminates the need for manual modeling, allowing designers and enthusiasts to focus on refining and customizing their designs rather than getting bogged down by the technicalities of model creation.

Advantages of AI in 3D Model Generation

Increased Accuracy: AI algorithms, trained on vast datasets, can produce models with a high degree of precision, capturing even the subtlest details from the provided input.

Reduced Errors: Manual modeling can sometimes introduce errors, be it in mesh topology, scaling, or alignment. AI-driven processes minimize these errors and optimize the generated models for printing.

Faster Turnaround: With AI, you can drastically reduce the time from concept to a ready-to-print model. What might take hours or even days manually can be achieved in a fraction of the time with AI.

AI democratizes the 3D modeling process, making it more accessible and efficient. By shouldering the technical burdens, AI allows users to channel their energies into the creative aspects, heralding a new age of design and innovation in the 3D printing community.

From Concept to Creation: A Practical Workflow

After exploring the transformative potential of AI in 3D modeling, we must understand how to apply these advancements practically in real-world scenarios. The theoretical benefits of AI are undeniably impressive, but its application in a tangible workflow truly brings its capabilities to light. Let's dive into a step-by-step example that showcases how one can seamlessly integrate AI tools into the 3D modeling and printing process:

Idea Generation:

• Begin with a rough idea prompt. This serves as the foundation for the entire process, guiding the AI model in generating relevant visual content.

1) Image Generation with DALL-E 3:  

• Submit the idea prompt to Bing Image Generator powered by DALL-E 3.
• For this workflow, the example prompt used was: "Big head skeleton figurine for a desktop toy. On a white background with no shadow".
• Review the generated images and select the preferred output. Save the chosen image for the next step.

2) 3D Model Creation with CSM 3D Modeling:

• Use CSM 3D Modeling to transform the 2D image into a 3D model. The platform leverages AI to interpret the image and generate a detailed 3D representation.
• Once satisfied with the model's details and accuracy, save it in the format used by your chosen modeling software.

3) Refinement in Blender:

• Open the saved file in Blender, a powerful open-source 3D modeling software.
• Manually refine the model's rough properties or imperfections to meet the desired standards.
• Ensure the model is optimized and ready for the slicing process.

4) Slicing the Model:

• Export the refined model from Blender in the .stl format.
• Open the .stl file in a slicer software. For this workflow, we used Creality Slicer.
• The slicer software generates the G-CODE, which provides the printer with detailed instructions for creating the 3D object.

5) 3D Printing:

• Transfer the G-CODE to the 3D printer. In this case, we used our Creality K1 printer.
• Choose the desired filament. For this example, we used Inland Black-Blue Shimmer PLA filament.
• Initiate the printing process and watch as the AI-generated design comes to life as a tangible 3D object.

By integrating AI tools with traditional 3D modeling and printing techniques, this workflow offers a streamlined approach to bringing creative ideas to fruition. The fusion of technology and creativity ensures high-quality results with a reduced learning curve.

Disclaimer: It's important to note that the workflow presented here is just one of many possible approaches to integrating AI into the 3D modeling and printing process. The market has many platforms and tools, each offering unique features and capabilities. While this method has proven effective for the given example, countless other workflows and combinations of applications can achieve similar results. As always, exploring and experimenting with various platforms is advisable to find the workflow that best aligns with your specific needs and preferences.

The Future of 3D Printing with AI

As we reflect on 3D printing's journey from its humble beginnings to its status as a technological marvel today, we see that integrating Artificial Intelligence will be its next transformative chapter. The confluence of these two groundbreaking technologies promises to reshape the design and manufacturing landscape, ushering in a new era of innovation and creativity.

As AI continues its rapid evolution, its symbiotic relationship with 3D printing will only deepen. Advanced algorithms, better data processing capabilities, and intuitive user interfaces will further streamline the 3D printing workflow. We stand on the cusp of a revolution where the boundaries between technology and creativity are blurred, and the possibilities are limitless.

Dive into the world of AI image and 3D model generation tools. Experiment, iterate, and discover how AI can enhance and simplify your processes. Remember, the future of 3D printing is not just about machines and materials; it's about the fusion of technology and creativity. And in this exciting journey, AI can be your invaluable companion.

Diode lasers have been around for a while now, but that doesn’t mean they’re not constantly innovating. Last year we took a look at TwoTrees’ Totem S. The Totem S uses an open frame design, which tend to be inexpensive and easy to produce but lack some important safety features. They also tend to use low power laser sources, resulting in long processing times. CO2 lasers resolve many of the safety issues present with open frame diode lasers and provide much more power but are bulky, expensive, and difficult to set up. The xTool S1 aims to bridge the gap between the two.

Features of the xTool S1

Power and Probing

The xTool S1 provides a big power upgrade over many other diode lasers. It’s available with a 20- or 40-watt laser head. The 40-watt head uses six eight-watt diodes compressed into a single beam to provide more power than a single diode. This allows it to cut through wood up to 15mm (⅝”) thick. There’s also an IR laser head available for marking metal. It’s worth noting that the power can’t be directly compared to CO2 lasers, as diode lasers are rated based on the power they consume, while CO2 lasers are rated based on their output power.

Multiple laser source options give the S1 a wide range of capabilities

 The S1 is equipped with an effective autofocus system. You initiate the autofocus process with the head positioned over the material. A probe on the head measures the distance to the surface of the material. The head then moves to the rear right corner where it measures its home position and resets the probe.

After probing the material, the head moves to the upper right corner to reset the probe and set the Z height.

The probe doesn’t apply much force to the material. I was concerned it would push too hard to work well on soft materials like felt and paper (we’ll get into testing in a bit), but that wasn’t an issue. It’s held on with two magnets, so it will come off instead of being damaged if it crashes into something.

Thanks to the probe’s magnetic attachment system it won’t be damaged if it crashes.

The S1 is able to probe curved objects to create a map of the surface and engrave it. While I was not able to test this feature, it should work well on objects like plates that have subtle curves.

Safety on the S1

The S1 is fully enclosed, similar to a CO2 laser. It has interlocks on the lid that prevent the laser from firing if the lid is open. These features combine to make the S1 a class 1 laser product. Class 1 laser products are safe to use without any additional PPE, like laser safety glasses. Unless you purposely circumvent the interlocks on the lid, it’s impossible for dangerous levels of laser radiation to leak out of the laser.

Thanks to its fully enclosed design and interlock system, the xTool S1 is classified as a Class 1 laser product even though it uses a Class 4 laser source.

The enclosed design makes fume extraction trivial too. There’s no need for a tent style enclosure or enough ventilation to clear an entire room. Some simple duct work can be used to vent fumes outside, or an air purifier like xTool’s Smoke Purifier can be used to eliminate the need for outside ventilation. It comes with a built-in fan for fume extraction.

If venting fumes outside isn’t an option, a smoke purifier can be a great way to manage fumes.

The S1 has a built-in flame detection tool. If it detects fire, it will sound an alarm. It also has an emergency stop button, which provides a quick, easily accessed way to cut power to the machine if something goes wrong.

The large, easily accessible emergency stop makes it easy to cut power to the S1 if needed.

Accessories for the S1

There are several accessories available, including an air assist system and a honeycomb bed. The air assist is a small air pump that’s connected to the laser cutter with a USB C cable and an air hose. You can manually set the air flow or leave it on auto. When set to auto, it will automatically turn on and adjust the airflow when the laser starts.

The honeycomb bed is great for cutting. It reduces the surface area in contact with the material and improves fume extraction by allowing smoke to clear from the top and bottom of the material. If you’re only planning on using it for engraving, there’s not much reason to use the honeycomb.

While not necessary for engraving, a honeycomb bed is a fantastic accessory for cutting.

There are some accessories I wasn’t able to test. They include an automatic pass-through system, a rotary tool, and a riser. The pass-through system allows you to process parts that are 20” wide and infinitely long. It automatically feeds the material through the machine after processing each 12” section. The rotary tool lets you engrave round objects like rings, glasses, or mugs. The riser creates more internal space, allowing you to engrave on tall objects like boxes. It’s also necessary if you intend to use the pass-through system or rotary tool.

xTool’s rotary tool makes it possible to engrave round objects.

Material Testing

The S1 looks great on paper, but I wanted to see how it performed with common materials. I used xTools’ proprietary xTool Creative Suite to run the laser, though it is also compatible with Lightroom. xTool Creative Suite was intuitive and easy to use, and xTool has a series of articles and videos on setting up and using the software. It’s available for Windows, macOS, Android, and iPadOS.

I started with 3mm (⅛”) plywood. xTool Creative Suite has some predefined material settings built in, but I found their settings for 3mm plywood didn’t quite cut all the way through. This isn’t too surprising, as there can be major variations in the necessary settings with plywood from different suppliers. I turned the speed down, and was able to cut in 1 pass at 100% power and 20 mm/sec. I engraved at 30% power and 100mm/sec. The result is a crisp engraving and cleanly cut sides. There’s a little charring on the front that could easily be removed with some light sanding.

Next, I tried 6mm (¼”) birch plywood. The results were similar to the 3mm plywood. I cut at 100% power and 5mm/sec, and engraved at 30% power and 100mm/sec.

I then moved on to some thinner materials. Both paper and felt cut well at 100% power and 40 mm/sec. I was able to engrave both at 15% power and 200 mm/sec. The engravings nearly went all the way through. I thought these materials might pose an issue for the autofocus system, but it handles them without any problems.

Following paper and felt, I moved on to acrylic. I tried both solid white cast acrylic and bicolor acrylic with a dark blue top and white bottom. As expected from a diode laser, it was unable to cut the white acrylic. It was able to cut and engrave through the dark blue top layer of the bicolor acrylic but couldn’t cut the white layer. Due to the laser wavelength diode lasers operate on, they're unable to process light or transparent acrylic but work well on dark acrylic.

Leather cut nicely at 100% power and 20 mm/sec and engraved cleanly at 30% power and 100 mm/sec.

In general, the S1 cut at about 50-75% of the speed of my 50-watt CO2 laser for the same material. Both the S1 and my CO2 laser have 12x20 working areas, but the S1 takes up much less space. At 31”x23”x7”, it’s a true desktop machine. Weighing in at just over 40 pounds, I wouldn’t call it portable, but it could be moved if needed. My 40”x26”x23” CO2 laser needs a much larger area and takes 2 people to lift. The S1 doesn’t need any additional cooling, while CO2 lasers need a water pump or chiller to keep the tube cool. Additionally, you won’t need to carefully align and clean a series of mirrors and lenses for optimal performance.

The S1 is a great fit for most hobbyists. With an introductory price of just under $2000 for the 40-watt version, it comes in under the price of a comparable CO2 laser while taking up less space and needing fewer ancillary systems. It’s more powerful and capable than open frame diode lasers, and brings a number of valuable safety improvements to the diode laser market. It does have some material limitations, like the issue with light acrylic described above, but there’s no single “do all” laser on the market as different materials absorb or reflect specific wavelengths differently.

The S1 is well positioned between low power diode lasers that are inadequate for many users’ needs and CO2 lasers that are less user friendly and provide capabilities many users don’t need. If you’ve been looking for something that can do more than an open frame diode laser but don’t want to jump to a CO2 laser, this is the machine for you. 

The xTool S1 is now available at most Micro Center locations, with additional stock arriving at stores regularly!

We’ve taken a fairly in-depth look into the world of hobbyist laser cutters over the last year. Today we’ll be shifting gears and looking at a desktop-sized CNC router from Twotrees, the TTC 450. CNC routers are conceptually similar to laser cutters but with a major difference in how they cut. Some key differences include:

 ●    Method of cutting: Laser cutters use powerful focused light while CNC routers use a spinning router bit.

●    Work holding: Since a moving router bit is in contact with the material, CNC routers require more rigid work holding than laser cutters.

●    Kerf thickness: The kerf - or cut thickness - on a laser cutter can generally be ignored, while CNC routers can have a large kerf. The kerf size of a CNC router is determined by bit selection.

●    Materials: Some materials that are unsafe to process on a laser can be processed on a CNC router, and some materials that are easy to process on a laser can’t be processed on a CNC router

●    3D capability: CNC routers work great for 2.5 and 3D projects, while laser cutters are better suited for 2D projects.

●    Software toolchain: CNC routers generally require a more complex CAM process than laser cutters.

Opening the TTC 450

The TTC 450 from Twotrees is a small, desktop CNC router

We’ll talk about many of these points in detail, but let’s start by taking a look at the router. It comes nicely packaged in layered foam, just like the Totem S. All the tools needed to assemble it are included, and the instructions are easy to follow. It took me about an hour to assemble.

All the parts come packaged in foam. 3 of the 4 layers can be seen here.

The machine surface is made from MDF (Medium-Density Fiberboard) with a grid of nuts to use for work holding. The MDF won’t damage router bits if you cut too deep, but I wouldn’t treat it as a sacrificial work surface.

 The spindle is a simple 80-watt DC motor. This is a bit less powerful than some other hobbyist CNC spindles and routers but will work for light cuts in soft materials, making it a good choice for newer users.

The 80-watt spindle.

 It comes with several cutting bits, including a 3mm up-cut end mill, a 90-degree V tool, and several 30-degree V tools. The 3mm end mill is useful for pockets and perimeter cuts. The 90-degree V tool can be used for lettering and other engraving. The 30-degree V tools are meant for fine engravings, such as small plaques or PCBs. Like a lot of the TTC 450, these are mostly useful for beginners. They’ll work well for figuring out the basics of the machine and you won’t be too upset when you break them, but once you’ve worked out the kinks I’d recommend buying carbide end mills. A 6mm collet is also included.

Several bits are included, ensuring you don’t need to buy anything else to make your first cuts.

The rigidity is adequate for the included spindle. It’s unlikely you’ll run into issues with rigidity before exceeding the capabilities of the spindle.

While a pair of safety glasses is included, I would highly recommend picking up a pair of quality safety glasses before using the machine.

Testing the TTC 450

With an 18” square working surface, the TTC 450 is best suited for small projects. There’s a small piece of plastic included, so we’ll start our tests with that.

 As mentioned above, work holding is important when working with CNC routers. The TTC 450 comes with several toe clamps and bolts to hold them down. I used a hold-down on each corner and tightened the bolts with the included wrench. While the design of the hold-downs isn’t as secure as other work-holding options I have used, it'll work great for this machine. I think you’d stall the spindle before the hold-downs failed.

I used 4 of the 6 included hold-downs to mount the plastic.

I then installed the included 3mm end mill and used the included zero plate to zero the Z axis.

With the material in place, I switched over to my laptop to get my toolpaths ready. The digital side of the CNC workflow can be divided into 2 parts: Computer-assisted design (CAD) and computer-assisted manufacturing (CAM). CAD is the process of designing the shapes that will be cut. CAM is the process of generating toolpaths and G Code from a digital design. Twotrees recommends Easel, which has both CAD and CAM functionality. There are a number of other tools available for both CAD and CAM, but we’ll take Twotree’s recommendation and use Easel.

Easel’s web based interface is simple and intuitive to use.

Easel is a web-based software package with free and paid tiers. A 30-day trial of the paid tier is available. The paid tier has some very useful features, like V Carve capability, but the free version works for the test we’ll be doing today. We’ll look at the details of Easel in a future article. For now, I used the CAD functionality to draw an oval with the text “TT450” in it and used the CAM functionality to generate tool paths and G Code. It wasn’t until I finished cutting the piece that I realized I left out the “C” in TTC 450. After using the simulation tool to ensure my toolpaths look good, I saved the G Code to a microSD card and installed it in the TTC 450. You can also stream G Code from a computer to the TT450 using Candle or Universal G Code Sender.

This was my first time using Easel, though I have used several other CAD and CAM tools in the past. The interface was fairly simple and intuitive. It didn’t take me long to figure out the basics I needed for this test cut. Finding the proper settings for the TTC 450 took some trial and error, but once I figured that out it was smooth sailing.

The TTC 450 in action

It took about 10 minutes to complete the cut. The results aren’t perfect, but solid for an entry-level cutter. While there are some chips hanging on to the finished piece - even after blowing it off with compressed air - the edges are sharp and clean. Different end mills would make a big difference in the end result, but the included one is a solid first-timer. Said included end mill is an up-cut end mill. Up-cut end mills work well for many materials, but a sharp O flute bit tends to give better results in plastics, like the one I used for my demo. We’ll explore end mill selection in a future article as well. You’ll notice some uncut tabs holding the finished piece into the plastic stock. This is necessary when using a CNC router to ensure the piece remains fixed to the bed after the perimeter is cut.

The results of my first test cut. The edges are sharp and clean, but there’s chips hanging onto the finished part.

My only real complaint is the lack of dust collection. Most CNC routers have a dust collection shoe that can be connected to a vacuum system. Out of the box the TTC 450 does not come with any dust collection. I’ll be exploring options to add dust collection in the future.

Without dust collection, the TTC 450 makes a bit of a mess.

The TTC 450 is a well made machine that’s great for hobbyists. Its low power spindle necessitates light cuts, but otherwise it’s a capable machine. I like that it includes everything you need for your first cuts, though some parts will be upgraded quicker than others as you get more comfortable with CNC routers. If you’re looking to dip your toes into the world of CNC routers, the TTC 450 is a great place to start.

As more home shops begin to use laser cutters, it's important to remember safety procedures. Like most other tools at our disposal, laser cutters are safe when operated correctly but can be dangerous if misused. Today we'll be addressing material hazards, fires, laser exposure, and other common hazards. Hazards and mitigation vary depending on the type of laser, so we’ll cover diode, CO2, and fiber lasers in this article.

While these tips are great ways to ensure your safety, they can't cover all niche cases. Be sure to read all documentation that comes with your laser for exceptions or additional safety tips!

Budget-friendly laser cutters, like the Creality CV-30, are becoming more and more common in home shops.

Material Hazards

As mentioned in previous articles, some materials are unsafe to process with a laser. Some materials, like vinyl, release gases that are toxic and can damage the laser. Others, like polycarbonate and some foams, tend to burn rather than cut or engrave cleanly. The Austin Makerspace has a good list of safe and unsafe materials in their wiki, which can be found here. While this list isn’t complete, it covers most common materials and is a good starting point if you’re unsure about the safety of a material.

Fumes

Choosing safe materials is an important first step, but you’re not out of the woods yet. Any material you cut or engrave will release smoke or other fumes. While these fumes may not be immediately hazardous, long-term exposure can be detrimental to your health. Ventilation is a must regardless of the material or type of laser you’re operating. The most common option is to vent the fumes outside. Depending on your laser, this can be accomplished with anything from a fan in an open window to ductwork leading outside. In general, more powerful lasers will require more ventilation. Enclosed lasers, like most CO2 lasers, usually have a place to connect ductwork for ventilation. Some have exhaust fans built in. Open lasers, like most galvo fiber lasers and many diode lasers, may require a bit more creativity. An aftermarket or DIY enclosure is one of the most effective options.

Enclosed lasers, like the TS3 from TwoTrees, make it easy to provide adequate ventilation.

If you’re unable to vent fumes outside, there’s a wide range of air filters available that will remove any hazardous fumes. These filters require routine maintenance to ensure they’re operating efficiently. The manufacturer should provide service intervals for cleaning or replacing filters.

Fires

Fires can occur while laser cutting. It's common to see small flames while the laser is cutting. As long as these flames remain small and self-extinguish when the laser stops firing, they're completely normal and no action is required. An air assist can help keep these flames to a minimum while also keeping smoke off your lens.

Some materials may smolder, but not ignite into a flame. If this happens, power off the laser, extinguish the smoldering material, and check lenses and mirrors for cleanliness. It's unlikely for a smoldering fire to do any permanent damage to a laser, but smoke can build up on optics and lenses. This can lead to reduced power output or damage to the optics. I have found smoldering fires to be particularly common with soft, lightweight plywood.

High-intensity fires are uncommon but can be extremely destructive. In just a couple of minutes they can ruin belts, lenses, wiring, and other components. The pictures below show the aftermath of a relatively small fire in my CO2 laser cutter that occurred while cutting acrylic. In the time it took me to get a cup of coffee the material ignited, ruined a lens and mirror, almost melted a hole in the lid, and melted a belt, some wiring, an LED strip, and the air assist tube.

I had already removed part of the laser head and the lens in this picture, but the damage to the belt and LED strips can clearly be seen here.

I was able to salvage the lid, but the fire nearly melted through it.

Here you can see the damage to the air assist tube, LEDs, and wiring for the laser pointer.

 Fires can occur with any material. If you experience a flaming fire in your laser cutter, immediately unplug the laser and extinguish the fire. I highly recommend keeping a fire extinguisher near your laser. Most household fire extinguishers use a dry powder to smother fires. While this is very effective for a wide range of fires, it makes a mess that is difficult to clean up. CO2 and Halotron are alternative extinguishers that use gasses to extinguish flames, which will dissipate without leaving any residue. And don’t forget a smoke alarm!

Laser Radiation

One of the most obvious hazards is exposure to the laser itself. Eye exposure can cause immediate blindness, and skin exposure can cause burns.

Almost all laser cutters, including this Thunder CO2 laser, are Class IV Lasers.

CO2 lasers are generally safe as long as all covers are closed and the interlock on the lid is not disabled. Their fully enclosed design minimizes the risk of exposure during normal operation. Some operations, like using a passthrough to process large pieces, involve partially opening the enclosure while the laser is running. It's important to wear protective glasses while performing these operations. Though it may be tempting to bypass interlocks while performing mirror alignment or other maintenance, doing so will dramatically increase your risk of injury from exposure to laser radiation. CO2 lasers generally do not come with safety glasses, but they’re readily available. You’ll want a pair with an optical density of at least 6 that’s designed to provide protection from 10,600nm radiation.

Many diode and galvo fiber lasers do not have enclosures. This dramatically increases the risk of exposure to direct or reflected laser radiation. Safety glasses designed to protect from laser radiation are a must if you'll be working around lasers without an enclosure. Diode and fiber lasers generally come with safety glasses. It’s worth double-checking the wavelength of your laser and verifying the glasses you buy will provide adequate protection. Making or buying an enclosure is another good option. Micro Center carries a simple and inexpensive enclosure that will work with many diode lasers, which is available here. An enclosure will help protect you from laser radiation, and most incorporate ventilation. Unlike CO2 lasers, these enclosures rarely have interlocks that prevent the laser from firing if the enclosure is open. If you open the enclosure while the laser is running, you risk exposing yourself to laser radiation.

An aftermarket enclosure such as this one from XTOOL provides ventilation and reduces the chance of exposure to laser radiation.

Diode lasers often come with a small magnetic shield that connects to the laser source. These shields can help reduce the change of exposure to the laser, but do not provide adequate protection by themselves.

Since different types of lasers operate at different wavelengths, you’ll need to match the glasses you use to the laser you’re operating. A pair of glasses that provides protection from a CO2 laser might provide little to no protection from a fiber laser. You should be able to get the wavelength of your laser from the instructions, the label on the laser source, or the manufacturer. Any laser safety glasses made by a reputable company will clearly list the wavelengths they provide protection from.

While reflected radiation can be harmful to your eyes, it’s unlikely to damage skin. Care should be taken to keep your body out of the path of the laser beam, but no other precautions are necessary to avoid burns or other injuries.

More information on Class 4 lasers can be found at Laser Safety Facts. If your laser has a laser pointer in addition to a high-power laser source, you might want to review their page on Class 3A lasers as well.

Other Hazards

Most other hazards are not unique to laser cutters. Laser cutting can produce sharp edges on some materials, which creates a cut hazard. Glass can shatter if you overheat it while engraving, which also creates a cut hazard. Cutting or engraving metal can generate enough heat to cause burns. Moving parts can create pinch hazards. It’s impossible to list every possible hazard you might encounter, but as long as you operate your laser cutter with the same care as any other tool you should be able to avoid other hazards you may encounter.

Intense, concentrated heat while engraving can shatter glass.

 Laser cutters are versatile tools that can add unique abilities to your home shop. These unique abilities also bring some unique risks. With proper setup, material selection, and protective glasses when necessary, these risks are easily mitigated and make laser work a safe and fun hobby

Looking for more Maker guides and reviews?

We’ve got a 3D Printing Community as well as a Maker Community, a whole section of 3D Printing How-Tos, as well as articles on How to Choose a 3D Printer and Raspberry Pi set-up guides. And if you can’t find what you’re looking for, don’t hesitate to post a new discussion and the Community will be happy to help!

Uno R3 MainBoard – Micro Controller

The Arduino Uno R3 has become a staple of the maker community and for good reason. This microcontroller board can be used to read data from external inputs and control external modules such as LEDs, motors, and relays, which can be used to control higher voltage projects. The ever-popular Uno R3 Mainboard is a great way to get started in programmable electronics and there are large amounts of projects and videos on the web that can help you get started with this. If you’re looking for a more comprehensive kit with additional parts and examples to get you started, you can check out Inland’s Uno Super Starter Kit. If you're looking for extra help, documentation for the Uno R3 Mainboard can be found on the Community Knowledge Base.

Single 5V Relay Module for Arduino

If you’re looking for a way to control higher voltage electronics, like a lamp, from your microcontroller, a relay could be your answer. While we highly recommend doing your research and checking with a qualified electrician before working with anything with a higher voltage, relays are great ways to control power using a lower voltage - like using this 5V relay to control upwards of 250v @ 10a. The Inland Single 5V Relay Module for Arduino can be connected to an Arduino simply using 3 wires: ground, voltage, and signal. Full documentation for the Inland Single 5v relay can be found on the Community Knowledge Base.

Inland PIR Motion Sensor Module

Many of the modules we have are considered input modules. Input modules wait for a change in the environment, whether it's an action taken by a person or a natural change, like lighting or temperature. Once that change happens, then the microcontroller will take an action or record an event. This PIR - or Passive InfraRed module - is a great way to trigger a main board or microcontroller to take an action based on movement in an environment. These sensors are found in many things we interact with every day already, such as door sensors and automatic scent sprayers. This module can again be connected to a microcontroller with only 3 cables, ground, signal, and voltage. Full documentation for the Inland PIR Motions Sensor Module can be found on the Community Knowledge Base.

Make sure to check out your local Micro Center store for a full assortment of Maker Boards, modules, and parts. Don’t forget to check out the Community as well for information on parts/boards and module - documentation for most modules and boards can be found on our Inland Maker Knowledge Base. 

Looking for more information about Arduino and Raspberry Pi? We’ve got a Hobby Board section of the community, as well as Hobby Board guides like The Definitive Micro Computer Buying Guide, Raspberry Pi Basics, and How to Create a Retro Game Console with Raspberry Pi! And if you can’t find what you’re looking for, don’t hesitate to post a new discussion and the Community will be happy to help!

You’ve just picked up your first 3D printer. You’re excited to print all of your favorite characters or figures from that hot new video game/anime/TV show. You follow all instructions for installation, watch a few youtube videos, slice your first file, send the print to the machine, and shazam! A failed print? What went wrong? What should you have done differently? There are so many variables in 3D printing, so let's break down some of the most common pain points for new 3D print enthusiasts.

1)     Understand the tool you are using and its true capabilities.

3D printers, while yes still magical, aren’t without limitations. Printing items that are too detailed, have many features that flow in many directions, and require a lot of supports are tough to print if you’re new to the hobby. Do not get discouraged though, with time, practice, and experience you’ll learn what the printer is truly capable of and be able to make better judgment calls when looking at how a model may be produced.

2)     Respect the filament spool!

One of the biggest pieces of advice I give people when they are getting started is to really watch when opening, changing out, or replacing filament spools. Veterans of 3D printing will be glad to recount to you the number of times they’ve come back to a print where the head is still moving about 25-30mm above the print bed with nothing extruding. This is often likely due to either a clog or, potentially more often, a snag in the spool. If the spool is not kept taught while changing, loading, storing, and initially unpackaging, there is the potential for the filament to unravel underneath itself and cause the filament to snag, preventing it from continuing its path down the filament tube.

3)     Clean your bed.

I personally tend to not be too adventurous when it comes to my printers at home, sticking mostly to our Inland PLA+. However, bed adhesion is still a major concern of mine. I am typically not the biggest fan of applying adhesive sticks or goops unless the print really requires it. What I find to be much more effective is ensuring you have the right print surface for the material you are using and ensuring that it is clean. On my printers I have a stock glass bed and an upgraded PEI sheet. Both have great adhesion if maintained. Cleaning with isopropyl alcohol between every few prints makes sure that no dust or oil is getting in the way of an excellent union between the print and the bed.

4)     Learn to manually level.

While the promise of autobed leveling has been around for quite some time, some with many multipoint checks that ensure a proper mapping in the firmware of how the bed actually is, to me nothing quite beats a good old run of CHEP’s bed leveling file and some on the fly fine-tuning. Getting a feel for what the first layer of a print should really look like is important and ensures good adhesion to a clean bed. When printing smaller parts that require high tolerance, being a little bit off can be the difference between something working well and not working at all.

5)     Nice and Easy Does it. Your printer may tout speeds of upwards of 300mm/s, but we recommend you start slow. Unless you really have a need for fast-speed printing and you’ve spent the time to dial in not only the machine but also the material, slow printing will almost always provide you with better quality parts. And on that note, if it’s a part that will be used and not necessarily seen, don’t shy away from printing at a .3mm layer height. If it’s not necessary for the part to be overly aesthetically pleasing, why was the time on .1 or .2 mm layer height when the .3mm will save you time and produce a nice functional part.

Looking for more information about 3D Printing? We’ve got a 3D Printing Community, a whole section of 3D Printing How-Tos, as well as articles on How to Choose a 3D Printer, and an in-depth look at the differences between 3D Printer filaments. And if you can’t find what you’re looking for, don’t hesitate to post a new discussion and the Community will be happy to help!

At 8:00 am UK time this morning, the Raspberry Pi Foundation announced three more entries to the Raspberry Pi Pico family. The Pico H/Pico W and Pico WH all feature additions which fans of the Pico will find useful. The first in the line is the Pico H, which users have been asking after for some time now. The addition of breadboard-compatible headers will allow users to get up and running with their Pico without having to stop to solder the headers on. The Pico H also features a pre-soldered JTAG connector which will allow greater ease of use for adding on inputs and outputs. The Pico H will retail at $5.00 USD.

The second board announced today is the Pico W which features an Infineon CYW43439 wireless chip. The CYW43439 supports IEE802.11 b/g/n wireless and Bluetooth 5.2. Only wireless LAN is currently supported at launch. This board will retail at $6.00 USD. With the addition of wireless LAN, Pico users will now be able to engage more easily in the world of IOT for their Pico-powered projects.

The final addition to the family announced today is the Pico WH which will include both the Infineon CYW43439 wireless chip as well as the pre-soldered headers and JTAG connector. This board is currently slated for availability sometime in September and will retail at $7.00 USD.

We’re very excited for these additions to the Pico family, and can’t wait to watch as the RP2040 chip continues to grow in popularity and use in the maker community!

It’s never been easier to create your own at-home maker space. Not only is it becoming more accessible for new-comers and novices, but desktop digital fabrication machines have lowered in price over the last 10 years. In 2013, companies like Printrbot were offering a Barebones 3D Printer Kit for $199. Now, in 2022, Micro Center offers new retail store customers a $99 coupon for the popular Ender 3 Pro. Access to these idea-inspiring tools has become more affordable.

It’s not uncommon to find a hobbyist with multiple 3D Printers in their homes, and more and more people are gaining access to smaller CNC machines and hobby lasers. These machines often act as a gateway into a small home business and are eventually upgraded to larger, more prosumer or industrial-grade machines.

Home-grade tools include 3D Printers, desktop CNC, hobby lasers, vinyl cutters, and even CNC embroidery machines. All of which can be purchased for $200-$500 per machine. This low cost makes having a multi-faceted Maker space at home much more of a reality for many people.

Access At An Early Age

Over the past decade, schools, libraries, and community-based Maker spaces have increased public access to digital fabrication tools. Incorporating digital fab education in the classroom has increased knowledge and utilization among children in grades K-12. For students with a propensity for operating and designing with these machines, the reduced cost, and increased availability have helped move these machines into homes.

Safety First

Whether it’s the needle of a sewing machine, the beam of a 10watt diode laser, or the high RPM spinning bit of a CNC machine, safety should always be a top consideration. It is always important to follow common sense and manufacturers' recommendations when using these automated tools. It is also important to consider any by-products when transforming your materials.

Lasers, for instance, often create smoke from whatever it is engraving or cutting. Beyond evacuating the smoke, it is essential to understand what materials may off-put hazardous gas when burnt. You can find this information in online product safety sheets and manufacturers' recommended materials.

Generally, any time you’re running any machine that utilizes heat or generates dust, it is recommended that you’re in an area with ample ventilation and fresh air.

It is vital to ensure your project is secure to your machine when operating CNC machines. More importantly, never touch the device during actual operation.

It is important to remember that a 3D printer nozzle and bed require high operating temperatures that can easily burn skin. Also, good ventilation is recommended with 3D printing as well.

The Tools of the Trade

Entry-level 3D Printers have come a long way from the machines of the late 2000s. With consistency in build quality as well as improvements in software and consumables, it’s easier to find success printing sooner with an entry-level machine such as the Creality Ender 3 Pro than it was even a few years ago. While there is still some assembly required, which allows the manufacturer to keep the cost down, the sheer number of how-to videos and users on the internet has increased this entry-level printer's success and adoption rate.  While it might not be the most flashy or powerful, it still stands as a solid entry-level machine.

Laser engravers such as the Totem S from Two Trees Tech have pushed the boundary in what a sub $500 laser can do. Basic engraving on materials such as wood, acrylic, and even anodized aluminum allows this diode-based laser to punch above its weight class. Previously, CO2-powered lasers, even in the hobby range with a respectable bed size, would cost you over $1,000 and would often require external water cooling for the laser tube containing the CO2 gas. These newer diode lasers continue to push their way towards the power of those entry-level CO2 lasers at a fraction of the cost. Additionally, laser rotary stages can be added to allow the engraving of cylindrical objects such as glassware and coffee mugs.

Two Trees also makes a desktop CNC machine in the 3018 (30cm x 18cm bed size) class that currently comes in at a sub $200 price point. These desktop machines are great for milling softer materials and working their way up to aluminum. Many folks use these smaller machines for applications like milling circuit boards, creating jewelry, and customizing existing products.

With these affordable single-use maker tools also come machines that can perform multiple functions. The Snap Maker 2.0 Modular 3 in 1 (A350) can not only 3D print but also laser engrave and utilize a CNC spindle for use with milling bits. These all-in-one machines can benefit people who are limited on space and don't require multiple processes to be run simultaneously. Because many of these machines utilize the same movement style, there are add-ons for some machines listed above to give them multiple functions, such as laser or CNC.

Software - Free to Tinker

One of the most significant barriers to entry in the past had been having the correct software. Customers often paid a premium for software, and ultimately the software was clunky at best. Machines that shined in the earlier days were often more expensive due to the time and development that went into the machine and the software. That is no longer the case.  And while there are still many excellent software suites that require either a subscription or upfront cost, many low-cost or free alternatives have matured to being quite user-friendly and compatible with many machines.

It is important to understand the software toolchain for these devices. It often starts with a CAD/CAM (computer-aided design or modeling). This piece of software is where you often design the project from scratch. This is often the best way to go when trying to recreate a mechanical project vs. attempting lower-end 3D scanning devices. Software such as Autodesk Fusion is a very powerful CAD/CAM package that allows you to create designs. And while it started as free, it now has monthly costs associated. Other tools such as Shapr3D allow for modeling cross-platform on Windows/Mac and iOS, which can be handy is also a subscription-based option. For free, more basic modeling, users can start with Tinkercad.com, also by Autodesk. This user-friendly online application allows users to explore 3D modeling, albeit with many limitations, but in a creative and approachable manner.

Many people are now using the powerful and relatively inexpensive LightBurn software for lasers. This competes with many higher-priced laser software alternatives. LightBurn is continually improved, and features support for many inexpensive lasers, including the aforementioned Two Trees Totem S. This software allows you to design and send commands to the laser for operation.

Similarly, for CNC, easel.inventables.com allows you to design and run your desktop CNC machine. While some of this is open and free for initial use, there is now a subscription-based model.

Many alternatives exist with varying degrees of ease of use and cost. However, it is normally safe to expect that your machine, be it a laser, CNC, or 3D printer, will include software on a SD/micro SD card to operate or create your designs.

If you are not currently ready to create your designs and want to start operating your machine, sites like thingiverse.com, Printables.com, and instructables.com are excellent places to look for free designs uploaded by other site users.

Environmental Considerations

Now that you’ve got your machines and software, and are ready to start producing your next-world-changing ideas, here are a few last things you’ll want to consider when setting up your space. You’ll want to make sure you have ample power to run these machines. While they are not as power-hungry as their more industrial counterparts, you may run into issues if you’re operating them on a similar circuit to your everyday items, such as desktop computers and larger appliances. A few 3D Printers can pull a lot of wattage when they get up to heat and are running simultaneously.

It is also important to have ample lighting in your environment. Operating and maintaining the machines will be much easier if you can see what you’re doing. The temperature of your environment can also play a big part in the success of your output. 3D printers need to maintain heat on the hot end and the bed. Cold, drafty spaces may affect your ability to print consistently. Humidity can also play a factor in consumables such as filament and wood.

It may seem obvious, but access to an internet connection or Wi-Fi may be necessary as some machines can be controlled via an app or an online software, such as the case with easel by inventables and designing in tinkercad.com.

What are you going to make?

With all of the affordable options for digital fabrication at your fingertips, what will you make? Take it one step at a time. Every chance you get to run a job or print a widget is another chance to learn and take your maker abilities to the next level. As always, check out www.Microcenter.com for all of our options to build out your Maker space at home.

Looking for more Maker guides and reviews?

We’ve got a 3D Printing Community as well as a Maker Community, a whole section of 3D Printing How-Tos, as well as articles on How to Choose a 3D Printer and Raspberry Pi set-up guides. And if you can’t find what you’re looking for, don’t hesitate to post a new discussion and the Community will be happy to help!

Created by Chalter on Thingiverse

The middle crest can be printed with the Hogwarts crest, representing all the houses. Or, you can download a separate file for the four different house crests, Gryffindor, Slytherin, Ravenclaw, or Hufflepuff. For this print, I just went with the Hogwarts crest.

What I Used:

Printer: Ender 3 V2

Filament Used: Inland Natural 1.75mm PLA

Nozzle Temp: 218°

Bed Temp: 60

Infill: 14.11

Print Time: 10-11 hours

Software: Creality Slicer

The Print:

Besides the nozzle and bed temp, for the first print, I used the settings the creator recommended in the STL file. The first print resulted in a lot of stringing between the two Griffin Wings.

I also noticed the edges were slightly curling up by the end of the print.

Not a bad start, but we can do better

I reviewed the print settings and noticed my Retraction Distance was 8mm. I lowered this to 5mm to fix the stringing.

To help with the curling edges, I changed the Build Plate Adhesion from Skirt to Brim. 

There was extremely minimal stringing compared to the first print.  Here are the results. 

What should we print next? Let us know in the comments!

Recycling Packaging and Spools

Traditionally, filament comes in packages on injection molded plastic spools. These spools are lightweight, inexpensive, and durable. However, these spools aren’t always recyclable. Some are made from materials that can’t be recycled. Some are made from recyclable materials but are not accepted by municipal recycling programs because they are unmarked. Even if a spool is recyclable, there is a limit to the number of times it can be recycled before deteriorating beyond the point of usefulness. Thankfully, there is a lot that can be done with these plastic spools instead of just sending them to the landfill.

Plastic spools can be reused for a number of purposes. They’re great for storing Christmas lights and short extension cords. You can use your 3D printer to print drawers that fit in a filament spool, like these from Thingiverse user MistrYpsilon. You can stack them or glue them together and use them as small storage shelves. But even with all these possible uses, we all end up with more spools than we need eventually. Enter: cardboard spools.

Empty spools can be a great start for many organization projects.

Cardboard spools are nothing new, but they are becoming more common. Protopasta and other companies have been using cardboard spools for years, and Inland PLA is now available on cardboard spools. Durability is often cited as a concern with these spools, but I have not experienced any issues with cardboard spools. Protopasta uses corrugated cardboard, while Inland uses solid cardboard, and both have worked easily with my printer. And cardboard can easily be recyclable in all areas and breaks down much faster than plastic if it must be sent to a landfill. But if you don’t want to use a spool at all, there’s also spooless filament.

Inland’s filament now comes on an easily recycled cardboard spool

Spooless filament is another option for reducing the number of spools used. While trying to print without a spool tends to end poorly, there are a number of options for reusable spools the spooless filament can be loaded onto. These spools are made of 2 or more pieces allowing them to be disassembled to load new filament. Micro Center carries this spool made by Inland, or you can print your own using a model like this one from Thingiverse user danielbeaver. Spooless filament reduces waste by only requiring one spool for an infinite amount of filament. Spooless filament tends to be slightly cheaper per kilogram as well. Factoring in the cost of the reusable spool, printing with spooless filament becomes cheaper than printing with spooled filament after 3kg.

Spooless filament doesn’t come on a spool, but it’s easily loaded onto a commercial or 3D printed spool.

If you still have a surplus of plastic spools, you may be able to turn your spools into a filament manufacturer for reuse. The Columbus-based filament company IC3D accepts spools from IC3D, Printed Solid, and Inland filament in exchange for a discount on their recycled PETG filament. They don’t run this program all the time, so you may need to check their website or sign up for their newsletter to be notified when the program is open. You can find more information about this program here.

Reusing Extra Print Materials

While the steps above help reduce the waste from packaging 3D filament, they don’t help with the waste created by failed prints, supports, and prototypes. Unfortunately, most plastics used in 3D printing are not recyclable through municipal recycling programs. PLA, ABS, nylon, and polycarbonate are not recyclable through most municipal recycling programs. Polypropylene can be recycled in some municipalities, but few people use it for 3D printing. While PETG is chemically similar to the recyclable plastic PET, it’s typically not accepted for recycling as it is difficult to separate from PET and causes contamination. But all is not lost: there is still ways to recycle and reuse filament.

Some PLA is compostable, but generally only under industrial conditions. Backyard compost piles tend to be too cold for PLA to decompose. If your city offers composting as an option for waste disposal they may accept your PLA scraps. This can be a great way to keep plastic waste from ending up in the landfill.

If you’re careful to keep your scraps separated by material type, it’s possible to recycle them into usable filament at home. The process starts by taking sorted material and shredding it into small pieces. These pieces are then extruded through a hotend similar to the hotend on a printer. Once cooled, the extruded filament can be spooled up and used for future prints. There are a number of commercial and DIY options for recycling machines. Some integrate the shredder and extruder into one machine, though most require purchasing a shredder separately. With a powerful enough shredder, some of these systems can even be used to make filament from old spools.

Commercial options range from simple desktop units to larger production machines. Filabot is one of the most well-known commercial options for recycling filament at home. It’s a modular system that can be expanded to include a filament spooler and a cooling system. It takes about an hour to produce 1kg of filament on the Filabot. Alternatively, Wellzoom’s desktop filament extruder is a more entry-level option but takes a bit longer to produce 1kg of filament. Like the Filabot, Wellzoom offers an optional spooler. ReDeTec and 3Devo offer high-end desktop units for those who are really passionate about their prints and the environment.

When combined with a cooler and automatic spooler, the Filabot creates an efficient system for recycling filament.

You can also create your own, with DIY options ranging from kits that produce professional-looking systems to hardware store contraptions. The Felfil Evo is one of the more professional-looking options on the market. It can be expanded with a spooler and grinder to create an efficient system for recycling at home. It’s also available preassembled. Filastruder is one of the most well-known names in the home filament-making game and they offer a spooler to make winding your filament onto a spool easier. If you’re looking for a more hardcore DIY option, ianmcmill on Instructables has put together a guide on building an extruder from scratch.

Though a bit rough around the edges compared to some commercial offerings, ianmcmill’s DIY extruder is cheap and effective.

Reducing waste with print settings

It’s even possible to make your actual prints more eco-friendly! The default settings used in Cura and most other slicers are great for general-purpose printing but can be wasteful for some prints. When doing large prints that don’t need much strength like desk organizers or storage containers, you can often get away with dropping infill to 5% or 10%. This not only reduces the amount of material used but can dramatically reduce print time. Shorter prints equate to less energy used to run motors and heat beds and hotends.

Other than infill, the settings for these two prints are identical. Reducing infill from 20% to 7% cut print time by 7 hours and filament used by almost ⅓.

Reduce, Reuse, Recycle!

Reducing waste created by 3D printing doesn’t have to require big changes. Switching to filament that’s sold on cardboard spools or spooless filament doesn’t change your workflow, and might even save you money. For high-volume printers, a filament extruder can be a great way to reduce waste and provide a continuous source for filament that’s great for prototypes or other quick prints. Using efficient settings can help too. Reducing infill speeds up prints and reduces the amount of material used, both of which can reduce the environmental impact of 3D printing. 

Looking for more information about Raspberry Pi? We’ve got a Hobby Board section of the community, as well as Hobby Board guides like The Definitive Micro Computer Buying Guide, Raspberry Pi Basics, and How to Create a Retro Game Console with Raspberry Pi! And if you can’t find what you’re looking for, don’t hesitate to post a new discussion and the Community will be happy to help!

I collected samples of several of these materials. I tested plywood, paper, hardwood, acrylic, canvas, painted metal, and stainless steel. While not on the TOTEM S material list above, I also tested leather and glass.

For all my tests I used the file below. It’s small enough to run quickly, has engraving and cutting, and the script font has some fine details. I tested both cutting and engraving with most materials, but some can only be cut or engraved. I used the honeycomb bed from my CO2 laser for all tests, which helps while cutting. I used LightBurn as my cutting software. All engraving tests were done at 250 lines per inch. The power and speed were varied based on the material.

First, I tested plywood. This is one of the most common and versatile materials for laser cutting. I engraved at 50mm/sec and 100% power, and cut in 8 passes at 6mm/sec and 100% power. The engraving is sharp and well-defined. The cutting, while slow, was effective. There’s some charring, but it’s nothing a little 180 grit sandpaper can’t fix.

Next, I tried paper. This is a popular material for low-power lasers since it can be cut quickly. While TwoTrees specifies gray paper, the only paper I have on hand is white. I found it cut well, but burned rather than engraving. I decided to cut both the text and outline to test how the laser would handle fine cuts. The paper cut cleanly in one pass at 20mm/sec and 100% power.

I grabbed some walnut and tested engraving on hardwood. I didn’t try cutting due to the thickness of the wood, but hardwood generally behaves the same as plywood when cutting. The engraving is clean and sharp, though it would benefit from a light sand. This was done in one pass at 50mm/sec and 100% power.

Canvas was next. Like the paper above, engraving resulted in burning so I wound up cutting both the text and outline. Canvas cuts nicely in one pass at 6mm/sec and 100% power, leaving a light brown edge that frays easily. The fabric was wrinkled as you can see below, so I used some magnets to keep it flat on the honeycomb.

Next, I decided to try painted metal. I grabbed some off white spray paint and painted a scrap of titanium. The results are very good. At 100mm/sec and 100% power the laser cleanly removed the paint leaving a clear mark on the material. This may be one of the cleanest engravings of my tests, with the spacing between each line clearly visible.

Last but not least we have leather. For this test I used 3/4oz veg tan leather. I routinely use my CO2 laser to cut leather so I don’t need to cut it by hand. Leather also engraves well. It’s important to use real leather, not fake vinyl leather as fake leather can release toxic gasses when processed with a laser. At 50mm/sec and 100% power the TOTEM S produced a dark, crisp image with minimal scorching outside of the engraving and cut cleanly in 3 passes at 6mm/sec and 100% power leaving a dark edge.

After testing the materials with the TOTEM S, I tested them with my 50 watt CO2 laser. CO2 lasers are the most common style of laser in makerspaces. If you have experience using any style of laser that’s not a diode laser it’s most likely a CO2 laser. We’ll only be looking at the quality of the finished piece. My CO2 laser is much more powerful than the TOTEM S (with no shade to the TOTEM S – they’re built for different purposes), and would be the clear winner in any comparison of speed or cutting thickness. I kept the settings as close as possible on both lasers, but needed to use lower speed and higher power settings on the TOTEM S to account for its lower power output. In all the images below the tests done with the TOTEM S are on the left and the tests done with the CO2 laser are on the right.

My 12”x20” CO2 laser. Under the table is an air compressor and a five-gallon bucket of water with an aquarium pump that are necessary to operate this laser.

First up, we have plywood. The results are comparable. The engraving done with the CO2 laser is deeper and lighter. The edges aren’t as crisp, resulting in more obvious aliasing on the sample processed with the TOTEM S. The front of the piece processed by the CO2 laser showed a bit more charring than the piece processed with the TOTEM S, but a light sand will fix that.

Next, we have paper. The results are indistinguishable.

Hardwood showed very similar results to the plywood above. The CO2 engraving is slightly deeper, lighter, and has more surface charring.

Canvas showed similar results on both lasers.

Neither laser was able to mark on bare stainless.

On painted titanium, the CO2 laser produced a darker mark. The heat generated by the CO2 laser oxidized the titanium, turning it dark blue.

Leather showed results similar to plywood. The CO2 laser is lighter and deeper, and the TOTEM S is sharper.

Across the board, I found the CO2 laser produced lighter, deeper marks with slightly more surface charring while the TOTEM S produced sharper, cleaner marks.

 All in all, the TOTEM S is a very capable laser for many materials hobbyists will encounter. The TOTEM S was able to produce excellent engravings on tested materials and proved adequate to cut plywood, paper, fabric, and leather. Engraving definitely seems to be this machine's strong point, but it does well when pressed into service for cutting too.

And if you missed our past coverage of the TOTEM S laser, we've given our unboxing and initial review, as well as an in-depth look at how it works with LightBurn and LaserGRBL!

Looking for more Maker guides and reviews?

We’ve got a 3D Printing Community as well as a Maker Community, a whole section of 3D Printing How-Tos, as well as articles on How to Choose a 3D Printer and Raspberry Pi set-up guides. And if you can’t find what you’re looking for, don’t hesitate to post a new discussion and the Community will be happy to help!

Programming the Pi

First comes first: you will need to make sure you have set up your PI on Raspberry Pi OS. We have a complete guide on how to do this here! Once you have that setup, you will need to download the code. You can find this on Github for the Magic mirror. Or, you can download it through the terminal on the Pi with system commands! Remember that this requires a Raspberry Pi 3 or higher to work.

• First, you need to open the terminal on the Pi by hitting the Terminal logo in the top right.

• Next, you will need to type in the command below! Using this command will download the Node.js command environment for the Pi.

curl -sL https://deb.nodesource.com/setup_14.x | sudo -E bash -
sudo apt install -y nodejs

• After that, You will need to get the MagicMirror branch from Github. You can do this with a command. Enter the text below into the terminal.

git clone https://github.com/MichMich/MagicMirror

• Once downloaded, you will need to install the software. To install, change the directory to Magic Mirror and then run the install command. Both commands are found below and need to be run in order!

cd MagicMirror/

npm install

• You now have the program downloaded and installed. Copy the default files from the config files, which you can do with the following command.

cp config/config.js.sample config/config.js

• Lastly, you will need to launch the program with:

npm run start

• Make sure if you are launching the device from boot that you change directory with CD MagicMirror/ (case sensitive) before running NPM run start. Once done, you will get the display below!

After Setup

• Sometimes after setting up the Magic Mirror, you may notice that your weather is not working or showing an incorrect location. For the weather to work, you will need to navigate to Home/Pi/Magicmirror/Config/Config.js (pictured below)

• Open config.js and find the weather module. Once you find this, you will see where it says "API key" This will be where you will paste your weather API key. There are several providers of these keys, but the one we used for this example was from Open Weather Map, where you can make a free account and get an API key for this mirror. Once you've pasted your key in the API, your weather should automatically display.
• To get your exact location to display, you'll need to download the file at this link and find your locationID - see below for examples.

Your Magic Mirror is Complete!

Now that you have gone through the setup, the magic mirror is fully programmed. Now all you need to do is physically build the mirror. There are many different ways to do this. You can find an excellent guide to follow at All3DP, where they walk you step by step on how to create the frame for this! Once complete and all hooked up, you will have a smart mirror in your house that is fully customizable with modules so that you can customize this mirror to be your own!

Start by downloading and installing LaserGRBL from their website. It’s only available on Windows, but there are many ways to run Windows software on Mac and Linux.

LaserGRBL is relatively simple when compared to other laser control software. There’s no need to create a new device to connect your laser. After connecting your laser via USB, select the proper COM port from the drop-down menu and set the Baud rate to 115200.

These are the settings needed to connect to the TOTEM S. You may need to choose a different COM port.

 Click “Grbl” in the toolbar across the top, then click “Connect” to connect your device. Alternatively, you can press F12 to connect or disconnect your device, or use the icon to the right of the baud rate. After connecting, you should see some gcode appear in the terminal.

The gcode that appears lists some settings received from the laser controller

If your device does not connect, you probably need to install some drivers. In the toolbar across the top click “Tools” then “Install CH340 Driver”.

If needed, installing the drivers only takes a few clicks.

With the drivers installed and device connected, the laser status in the lower right corner may say “Alarm”. Since the TOTEM S does not have homing switches, LaserGRBL does not know where the head is located in the build area. This can cause an Alarm state. Click the padlock icon in the toolbar at the bottom of the window to resolve the error. I did not experience this with my laser, but did read reports of it occurring to other TOTEM S users.

With everything connected and ready to run, we can bring in our file. LaserGRBL supports a range of raster files, but only supports .svg vectors. We’ll look at vectors first. The file I am using is the laser accuracy test from LaserGRBL’s site. We’ll start by clicking “File” then “Append File”. Navigate to the location of your .svg and select it. 

You’ll be presented with a window that allows you to set cut parameters. The options are pretty limited. “Border Speed” is the cut speed for all vectors in your file. This is measured in mm/min. There’re two options for “Laser Mode”. “Dynamic Power” reduces power on some parts of the cut to account for variations in speed due to the laser’s acceleration. “Constant power” does not make these corrections. While the TOTEM S supports dynamic power, it’s usually unnecessary for cutting. Finally, we have “S-MIN” and “S-MAX”. These are minimum and maximum power settings. I had good results leaving “S-MIN” at 0 and setting “S-MAX” to 100 for cutting.

These are the settings I used for cutting. LaserGRBL does not offer as many options as LightBurn.

Unlike LightBurn, you don’t have the ability to separate processes by color. You’d have to use separate files if you want to run multiple processes at different settings. LaserGRBL does not support vector engraving, only vector cutting.

With all the settings in place, click “Create!”. To increase the number of passes, use the box next to the progress under the connection settings. I found I needed 13-14 passes to cut through 3mm plywood. You’re now ready to cut your vector file.

With everything set up to cut a vector file, your window should look like this.

Before we talk about starting the laser, we’re going to look at engraving a raster file. This is really the bread and butter of LaserGRBL, and we have many more options to choose from. First, we need to choose a photo. I decided to use this photo I took in Vancouver:

The photo has a simple background and good contrast between the sculpture and background. I have found these are key features for a successful photo engraving.

Once again, we’ll click “File”, “Append File”, then select the photo we want to engrave. This time we’ll have a lot more options to choose from.

Starting from the top, we can choose between smooth or sharp resizing. Smooth will have less aliasing than sharp.

Smooth (left side) vs. Sharp (right side) resizing

Next, we get to choose which method is used to convert our color photo to a grayscale photo. I found very little difference between the three presets. Custom allows you to manually mix each color channel to lighten or darken certain areas. The next 3 sliders allow you to alter the brightness, contrast, and white level of the photo. Finally, the “B&W” check box will turn your grayscale image into a two-tone image.

Next, we can choose our engraving process in the “Conversion Tool” block. For images, I like dithering. Line To Line Tracing also works well, but the results aren’t as smooth as dithering. Vectorize will convert your raster image to a vector, which is especially useful for two tone images. If you choose to vectorize an image, make sure you enable filling unless you just want an outline. Centerline is a vectorization process too, but it draws a single line down the middle of a shape rather than outlining a shape. There’s no fill option with centerline. Finally, we have “Passthrough”. This option is similar to line by line, but removes the options to resize the file. More information on each option is available in the LaserGRBL documentation. I chose Floyd Steinburg dithering with horizontal lines at 15 lines/mm for my sample image.

Click “Next”. In this window we can choose our engraving settings. I started at 2000mm/min and 100% dynamic power. I set my width to 50mm, which is about 2”. After entering your parameters, click “Create!”

These settings produced the engraving below.

Once your image is created, your window should look like this:

Regardless of the type of file you started with, the next steps will be the same. First, we’ll home the laser. Move the head of the laser to the lower left corner of your material. Next, we’ll focus the laser using the knob on the laser head. At this point its time to don your glasses and make sure the red shield is in place on the laser head. When you click the “Frame” button at the bottom of the screen, the laser will trace a bounding box around your file. It will also turn the laser on at a very low power. It’s not enough power to mark most materials, but it’s something to be mindful of. With the laser homed, focused, and our job framed, we’re ready to start cutting. Click the green play button to the left of the progress bar and pass count field.

As the laser runs you’ll see the gcode in the terminal as it’s sent to the laser. You’ll also see an estimated time at the bottom of the screen, and a progress bar with total time at the top of the screen. If you need to stop a job, press the red Stop button next to the progress bar. If you want to pause a job, click the red octagon with a white hand in it at the bottom right of the screen. If you stop a job you won’t be able to resume it. If you pause a job you can click the circle with a walking figure in it to resume the job.

This is what you’ll see as the laser runs. You can stop the job with the red square in the upper left, or pause it with the red octagon in the lower right.

Below is a picture of my engraving using the photo and settings described above. There’s a lot of room for improvement, and the small size of the photo coupled with the texture of the wood limits the amount of detail that can be achieved. In addition to the variation in tone, the finished image has a mild 3D effect to it as the darker areas are engraved deeper than the lighter areas. This image took about 15 minutes to engrave.

The result of my first attempt at engraving a photo with LaserGRBL

I decided to try again with slightly different settings. This time I set my speed to 2250, and increased the size to 75mm. I also lightly sanded the wood, and rotated it 90 degrees so the grain would be aligned with the laser’s direction of travel. As you can see below, these changes made a big difference in the quality of the engraving. This engraving took about an hour.

This larger engraving took more time, but the results are much better than the sample above.

Throughout my testing I experienced some stability issues. The computer would randomly lose its connection to the laser, causing the job to stop part way through. After rebooting and reconnecting the laser the software was sometimes able to recover and continue the job, but these stability issues would worry me on larger jobs. I was able to reduce (but not eliminate) these issues by changing the streaming mode to “RepeatOnError” and the threading mode to “Quiet” in the settings page. These changes dramatically increased the run time of the jobs I used for testing. These settings account for most of the increase in time between the samples shown in the photos above.

While much more limited than LightBurn, LaserGRBL is definitely a valid alternative to LightBurn. I found myself missing features like vector engraving and the ability to separate processes by color, but I was able to achieve similar results with both software packages. In my opinion the advantages offered by LightBurn are easily worth the $60 price tag, but it’s not strictly necessary to run the TOTEM S. My main concern with LaserGRBL is the stability issues I experienced. I haven’t been able to diagnose the cause of the issue, and without identifying and resolving the issue I would not feel confident using LaserGRBL for long jobs or jobs on materials that can’t be replaced as easily as a sheet of plywood. 

Looking for more Maker guides and reviews? We’ve got a 3D Printing Community as well as a Maker Community, a whole section of 3D Printing How-Tos, as well as articles on How to Choose a 3D Printer and Raspberry Pi set-up guides. And if you can’t find what you’re looking for, don’t hesitate to post a new discussion and the Community will be happy to help!

Before heading over to LightBurn’s website to purchase a license, you’ll want to make sure you understand the license scheme. LightBurn offers versions of their license: GCode and DSP, which are priced at $60 and $120 respectively. The DSP license can do everything the GCode license can, but adds support for DSP controllers such as Ruida. If you purchase the GCode license you have the option to upgrade to a DSP license in the future for $60. Both licenses are perpetual licenses that include one year of updates. This means you can keep using LightBurn forever without renewing your license, but you will not be able to update the software after one year. For $30 you can renew your license and receive another year of updates. There’s also a 30 day trial so you can decide if you like the software well enough to buy it.

If you only intend to use LightBurn for the TOTEM S or other GCode laser cutters I recommend purchasing the GCode license to save a bit of money. In general, GCode controllers are found in open frame diode lasers and DSP controllers are found in fully enclosed fiber and CO2 lasers. If you end up purchasing a laser with a DSP controller in the future you can upgrade your license for $60.

Open frame lasers like the TOTEM S on the left tend to use GCode controllers. Enclosed lasers, like the CO2 laser on the right, are more likely to use DSP controllers.

After buying a license your key will be emailed to you. Download LightBurn using the links here, and install it. You will be asked for your license key on the first run.

With LightBurn installed and licensed we can get a new laser created. You’ll be required to create a new laser on the first run. In the device window click “Create Manually” to launch the new device wizard.

Next, select GRBL as the controller.

You’ll only have one option for connection: Serial/USB.

Next, name your device (I chose GRBL) and enter 300mm for the X and Y axis lengths.

Set the origin point to Front Left and disable auto home on startup:

Finally, verify the settings and click “Finish”.

That’s all there is to setting up the software. Connect your laser to your computer via USB. In the lower right side of the screen you’ll see a block that’s named “Laser”. In this block is a button that says “Devices” and two drop down menus. Make sure your device name is selected in the second drop down and the appropriate COM port for your laser is selected in the first drop down.

Next, you’ll need a file to cut. You can draw shapes with the tools on the left side of the window, or import a file by clicking “File” then “Import”. I usually design my files in Illustrator then import them into LightBurn.

Importing files allows you to take advantage of powerful CAD and design programs like autoCAD and Illustrator.

In the upper right is a block titled “Cuts/Layers”. “Layer” in LightBurn is another name for color. We’ll use different colors to separate parts of our file that will be processed with different settings or in specific orders. For example, in the file below the yellow areas will be engraved and the blue lines will be cut:

In this file, everything will be cut at the same speed and power. However, I wanted the small circles to cut first in case the larger shape shifts after it is cut. I used two different colors to give me control over the order:

LightBurn doesn’t care what colors or color space you use, whether shapes are filled or not, or what stroke widths are used on lines.

Once your file is imported or created, double click on one of the layers in the top right. This will open the cut settings editor window where we can input cut or engrave settings. Start by selecting the appropriate mode from the dropdown menu. There’re 4 options, but we’ll only be going over Line and Fill as they are the most useful modes for cutting and engraving. We’ll start with Line, which is used for cuts. Line traces a vector path.

Double click any layer in this block to open the cut setting editor

Starting from the top of the window and working down we’ll enter our cutting parameters. We can’t change the Layer color without changing our file. The Name isn’t important, but can be useful to keep track of layers in complex files. Speed and Power are two of the most important settings. These settings have the biggest impact on the thickness of material you can cut. Low speed and high power will cut through thicker materials like plywood, but might burn thinner materials like paper. High speed and low power won’t cut through plywood, but will give better results on thin material. For 3mm plywood I found 8mm/sec at 100% power works well. Next to the Speed and Max Power boxes are two toggle switches. One is named Output. If this switch is off the layer you have selected will not be processed when the laser is running, so make sure it’s on. The next switch, Air Assist, doesn’t matter because the TOTEM S does not have an air assist.

Speed, power, and mode are our most important settings.

Moving down to the next block we get into some more advanced settings. Start and end pause time are typically unnecessary for diode lasers. Kerf offset can be useful to ensure a tight fit between parts. The laser takes away about .005” of material as it cuts, so offsetting your path by a few thousandths of an inch can help make parts snap together. I frequently use this setting when making inlays. Number of passes is also important for cutting. Using the settings for 3mm plywood I listed above, I found I needed 13 passes to reliably cut 3mm plywood. Overcut is the distance the beginning and end of a path will overlap. I’ve been leaving this at 0 for the TOTEM S, but typically use about .015” of overcut on my other lasers.

Number of passes is the most important setting here. The rest can usually be left at their default value.

The remaining settings can usually be left off. For information on these settings, check out LightBurn’s documentation.

These settings are rarely used. Check the LightBurn documentation for more information on them.

Now that our cut is set up, we’ll start looking at some engraving settings. To change to another layer, just click the colored box on the left side of the cut settings editor. We’ll set this layer to fill. Fill fills the area encompassed by a vector path.

Like before, we’ll start at the top and move down. Layer can’t be changed without changing the file, and Name isn’t terribly important. Once again, Speed and Power are the most important settings. For engraving, we typically run at higher speeds and lower powers since we don’t want to go all the way through. I found 200mm/sec and 100% power worked well on plywood. Just like Line, we want output on and don’t care about Air Assist.

We’re going to jump around a bit in the Fill Settings block because some settings are closely related but not in order. First, near the bottom, you’ll find Number of Passes. For really deep engravings you might want more than one pass, but one is usually adequate. Next, we’ll jump back to the switches at the top. First is Bi-directional fill. With this enabled, the laser will fire while moving left and right. If it’s disabled it will only fire while moving to the right. Next is Cross-Hatch. With this enabled the laser will do two passes, and the second pass will be rotated 90 degrees relative to the first pass. Jumping past Line Overscanning, Line Interval, and Lines per Inch we find Scan Angle. This changes the angle of motion of the head. As you change these settings the block of arrows to the left will move to indicate how the head will move. I recommend leaving Bi-directional fill on, Cross-Hatch off, and Scan Angle at 0. This will give you the fastest processing times.

Line Interval and Lines per Inch are two ways to talk about the distance the head moves in between lines. If you change one the other will automatically change too. 250 lines per inch is a good all-around setting. It balances speed and quality nicely. For high-quality engraving, I might go as high as 500 lines per inch. For quick, draft-quality engraving I’ll go down to 100 or 150 lines per inch.

From left to right, this image shows 500 lines per inch, 250 lines per inch, and 100 lines per inch on .5” circles.

Overscanning and ramp length can generally be left off and at 0 respectively.

Near the bottom is a group of 3 radio buttons. These affect how shapes are grouped while the laser is running. If “Fill all shapes at once” is selected the laser will move to and fire on every shape in the same line in a single pass. This works well for shapes that are close together, but can be slow for shapes spaced far apart. “Fill shapes individually” will fill a shape in its entirety, then move to the next shape even if they are in the same line. “Fill groups together” will fill a group of shapes in its entirety then move to the next group. See the animation below for an example.

From top to bottom, this video shows “Fill all shapes at once”, “Fill shapes individually”, and “Fill groups together”. Note that I manually grouped the last line into pairs for this demonstration.

Once again, the rest of the settings can generally be left at their default values. Check out the documentation if you want information on them.

Now that all our settings have been entered, click Okay at the bottom of the cut setting editor. If you want to rearrange your layers so they run in a different order, you can select a layer in the Cuts/Layers block and use the arrows on the right to move the layer up or down. In general it’s best to engrave first and cut from the inside out.

The arrows on the left allow you to reorder layers.

We’re almost ready to start cutting. Make sure your laser is plugged into your computer and powered on. Next, move the head to the point you want to start from. This can be a corner, the middle, or the center of an edge. Use the Job Origin radio buttons in the Laser block of LightBurn to select your origin point, and make sure the Start From drop down is set to Current Position.

Use the Job Origin radio buttons to change where the laser starts a job

Before cutting it’s a good idea to frame your job. LightBurn offers a rectangular frame which traces a bounding box around your job, and a rubber band frame which closely follows the outermost line of your job. Click either one and your laser head should start moving. Ensure the head doesn’t move off your material. If it does move off the material, reposition your material or head and make sure you have the correct Job Origin selected. If the head doesn’t move ensure the machine is powered on, connected via USB, and you have selected the correct COM port and device.

The frame buttons help ensure your job won’t fall outside of your material

Finally, attach the red laser guard included with the TOTEM S to the laser source and focus the laser using the silver Z height knob. I set mine to about 1mm above my material. Now that our file and laser are set up, it’s time to cut. Don your green safety glasses and click the Start button. You’ll get a warning about the job potentially being outside the cut area. As long as you have framed your job and are sure it will fit in the area you have to work with you can safely ignore this warning. The laser will start processing your job in the order you set in the Cuts/Layers block.

Click “Start” to begin processing a job.

The most common question I get in my laser classes is “what settings should I use?”. This is an extremely difficult question to answer. I can guess starting settings for materials and lasers I have used extensively, but that’s based entirely on my experience with a particular material and machine. The best option is to get more material than you need and run some test cuts at various power and speed settings until you find something that works well. If you want to make an engraving deeper or didn’t cut all the way through your material, try slowing down the speed, increasing the number of passes, or increasing power. On the other hand, if you find your cuts are charring the back or your engraving is too deep, try increasing speed, decreasing number of passes, or decreasing power. As you use the machine you’ll start to get a feel for where you should start and how changes to your settings will affect your results. Test cards like these from brento1 on Thingiverse can help. Note these are intended for CO2 lasers, so you’ll need to modify the settings to use them on a diode laser.

Tests cards like these can speed up the process of finding perfect settings

If you’re looking for a free and open-source option for controlling your TOTEM S, keep an eye out for my next article on running the laser using laserGRBL. In the future, we’ll also look at how the TOTEM S handles processing a range of materials and designing files for laser cutting. And if you missed last week, we cracked open and gave our first impression of the fantastic TOTEM S Diode laser!

Looking for more Maker guides and reviews? We’ve got a 3D Printing Community as well as a Maker Community, a whole section of 3D Printing How-Tos, as well as articles on How to Choose a 3D Printer and Raspberry Pi set-up guides. And if you can’t find what you’re looking for, don’t hesitate to post a new discussion and the Community will be happy to help!

I have owned and worked with several laser cutters over the last few years. It started with a Full Spectrum Laser at Cincinnati’s public library. Next I bought a K40 laser which lasted about a year before the tube died. When I moved to Columbus I started using the Trotec and Rabbit lasers at The Idea Foundry, and currently teach orientation classes on their Rabbit laser. Most recently I purchased a generic 50 watt laser. All of these lasers are CO2 lasers ranging from 40 to 120 watts. But I’ve never worked with anything like the TwoTrees TOTEM S diode laser.

Diode lasers are very different from CO2 lasers. Instead of having a glass laser tube that generates a beam which is reflected by mirrors to a cutting head and focused by a lens, diode lasers have the laser source mounted directly on the cutting head. Think of them as high-power laser pointers on CNC Etch-a-Sketchs. The power measurement for diode lasers is different too. Diode lasers are measured by the amount of power consumed, while CO2 lasers are measured by the amount of power produced. This makes it difficult to compare the output of diode and CO2 lasers. While the TOTEM S is listed as a 40 watt laser, it features a class IIIb laser source.

This puts the power output in the 5-499 milliwatt range.

The TOTEM S uses a Class IIIb laser source, putting its power output in the 5-499 milliwatt range.

Class IIIb lasers pose a significant eye hazard. Direct or reflected exposure to the beam of light from a IIIb laser can quickly blind you. Longer exposure to diffuse reflections (such as the laser dot on a piece of material being engraved) can also cause eye injury. For this reason, Twotrees includes a pair of green protective glasses and a shield that should be mounted to the laser source. For more information on class IIIb lasers and their potential hazards, check out this page from lasersafetyfacts.com.

A pair of green safety glasses and a red plastic guard are included to help mitigate the danger of the laser.

The TOTEM S laser comes disassembled. Everything is neatly packaged and clearly labeled. Assembly is a straightforward aluminum extrusion and T-nut affair. If you’ve assembled a 3D printer like the Creality Ender series you’re already familiar with the construction. Assembly took me about an hour. The instructions, while mostly pictographic, were easy to follow and understand. The clear labeling and organization of all the parts made it easy to find the components needed for each step.

Everything is well packed and nicely organized, ensuring nothing gets damaged and parts are easy to find when needed.

 The TOTEM S works with two different control softwares: laserGRBL and Lightburn. LaserGRBL is free and open source, while Lightburn requires a license. The license is $60, and comes with a year of upgrades. After a year you can continue using Lightburn, but will not be able to update the software. You have the option of renewing your license for $30, which will provide another year of updates. I chose not to renew my license when it expired about 2 years ago, and I don’t feel like I am missing anything. (We’ll get more into laser software next week). I used Lightburn for my first few cuts.

 Lightburn and LaserGRBL can both be used to control the laser. I prefer Lightburn.

 One problem I quickly discovered is the lack of ventilation. Without an enclosure it’s difficult to exhaust smoke out of the room the laser is running in. I wound up putting mine in a closet with a window and used a fan to vent the room outside. I did some engraving tests, including this whitetail buck. It’s about 3.5” square, and was engraved at 200mm/sec and 100% power. The results are exceptional. The engraving is dark and the lines are crisp.

One of my first real engraving tests produced this very sharp image.

With the success I had on the engraving tests I decided to try cutting some 3mm birch plywood. This presented another issue. Without something underneath the material, the laser will damage the surface it’s sitting on. In my case, that’s the floor of my closet. To combat this, I put the laser on a piece of ¾” thick plywood. Cutting was very slow and charred the front, back, and edges of the plywood being cut. It took 6 passes at 4mm/sec and 100% power or 12 passes at 10 mm/sec and 100% power to cut through 3mm plywood.

The first test cuts were less than stellar. These ½” squares were slow to cut and show lots of charring on the edges, front, and back.

 Compared to the engraving tests, the first cut tests were disappointing. However, the material is directly in contact with my protective plywood. This results in some burning on the back of the material and reduces the efficacy of the laser. Many laser cutters use a honeycomb table to help resolve this. Twotrees offers a honeycomb bed specifically for the TOTEM S. I don't have one, so I decided to take the honeycomb from my CO2 laser and run some more test cuts. I also found higher speed and more passes helped reduce charring. The living hinge below was cut in 14 passes at 8mm/sec and 100% power. It’s about 3” square and took just over an hour to cut.

This “living hinge” was made by cutting a series of lines to create a flexible portion of plywood

 The TOTEM S laser’s performance surprised me. I’ve always viewed diode lasers as toys, good for engraving and cutting thin materials like paper or cardboard but not up to the task of processing wood, acrylic, or other materials. While the TOTEM S took significantly longer to produce the same results as my 50 watt CO2 laser, it’s definitely capable of processing thin plywood. Unlike a CO2 laser, the TOTEM S does not require an air compressor for air assist or a water pump to cool the tube. This makes the TOTEM S significantly quieter, and I don’t find it distracting to have it running in the same room. There’s no mirrors to align or lenses to clean. It’s much smaller than the most compact CO2 lasers, and has an excellent footprint to cutting area ratio. These features, combined with the low price point, make the TOTEM S a compelling option for hobbyists looking to get into laser cutting or engraving.

But we’re not done with the TOTEM S yet – we have a full month of TOTEM S reviews, comparisons, and use tips coming up!

More TOTEM S guides:

Using LightBurn with the TOTEM S laser

Looking for more Maker guides and reviews? We’ve got a 3D Printing Community as well as a Maker Community, a whole section of 3D Printing How-Tos, as well as articles on How to Choose a 3D Printer and Raspberry Pi set-up guides. And if you can’t find what you’re looking for, don’t hesitate to post a new discussion and the Community will be happy to help!

1. Introduction

You want to make a cool robot, maybe a hexapod walker, or maybe just a piece of art with a lot of moving parts. Or maybe you want to drive a lot of LEDs with precise PWM output. Then you realize that your microcontroller has a limited number of PWM outputs! What now?

You could give up or you could just get this handy PWM and Servo driver breakout.

When we saw this chip, we quickly realized what an excellent add-on this would be. Using only two pins, control 16 free-running PWM outputs! You can even chain up 62 breakouts to control up to 992 PWM outputs (which we would really like to see since it would be glorious).

It's an i2c-controlled PWM driver with a built in clock. That means that, unlike the TLC5940 family, you do not need to continuously send it signal tying up your microcontroller, its completely free running!

It is 5V compliant, which means you can control it from a 3.3V microcontroller and still safely drive up to 6V outputs (this is good for when you want to control white or blue LEDs with 3.4+ forward voltages)

2. Parameter

- 6 address select pins so you can wire up to 62 of these on a single i2c bus a total of 992 outputs - that's a lot of servos or LEDs

- Adjustable frequency PWM up to about 1.6 KHz

- 12-bit resolution for each output - for servos, that means about 4us resolution at 60Hz update rate

- Configurable push-pull or open-drain output

- Output enable pin to quickly disable all the outputs

- We wrapped up this lovely chip into a breakout board with a couple nice extras terminal block for power input (or you can use the 0.1" breakouts on the side)

- Reverse polarity protection on the terminal block input

- Green power-good LED

- 3 pin connectors in groups of 4 so you can plug in 16 servos at once (Servo plugs are slightly wider than 0.1" so you can only stack 4 next to each other on 0.1" header

- A spot to place a big capacitor on the V+ line (in case you need it)

- 220 ohm series resistors on all the output lines to protect them, and to make driving LEDs trivial

- Solder jumpers for the 6 address select pins

- This board/chip uses I2C 7-bit address between 0x40-0x7F, selectable with jumpers

3. Connection Diagram 

I2C Communication Address Settings

- For Hardware:

Pin A5-A0 is suspended on the module.

The default address is 100 000, that is 40.

We are able to add 0Ωresistance appropriately in the A5-A0; set the communication addresses.

If the pin A5 - A0 all add 0Ωresistance, the address is 111, 1111, that is 7F.

4. Sample code

- For Software:

// called this way, it uses the default address 0x40

Adafruit_PWMServoDriver pwm = Adafruit_PWMServoDriver();

// you can also call it with a different address you want

//Adafruit_PWMServoDriver pwm = Adafruit_PWMServoDriver(0x41);

Code download:

https://github.com/adafruit/Adafruit-PWM-Servo-Driver-Library

#include <Wire.h>

#include <Adafruit_PWMServoDriver.h>

// called this way, it uses the default address 0x40

Adafruit_PWMServoDriver pwm = Adafruit_PWMServoDriver();

// you can also call it with a different address you want

//Adafruit_PWMServoDriver pwm = Adafruit_PWMServoDriver(0x41);

// Depending on your servo make, the pulse width min and max may vary, you want these to be as small/large as possible without hitting the hard stop for max range. You'll have to tweak them as necessary to match the servos you have!

#define SERVOMIN 150 // this is the 'minimum' pulse length count (out of 4096)

#define SERVOMAX 600 // this is the 'maximum' pulse length count (out of 4096)

// our servo # counter

uint8_t servonum = 0;

void setup() {

 Serial.begin(9600);

 Serial.println("16 channel Servo test!");

 

 pwm.begin();

 

 pwm.setPWMFreq(60); // Analog servos run at ~60 Hz updates

}

 

// you can use this function if you'd like to set the pulse length in seconds

// e.g. setServoPulse(0, 0.001) is a ~1 millisecond pulse width. its not precise!

void setServoPulse(uint8_t n, double pulse) {

 double pulselength;

  pulselength = 1000000;  // 1,000,000 us per second

 pulselength /= 60;  // 60 Hz

 Serial.print(pulselength); Serial.println(" us per period"); 

 pulselength /= 4096; // 12 bits of resolution

 Serial.print(pulselength); Serial.println(" us per bit"); 

 pulse *= 1000;

 pulse /= pulselength;

 Serial.println(pulse);

 pwm.setPWM(n, 0, pulse);

}

void loop() {

 // Drive each servo one at a time

 

 Serial.println(servonum);

 for (uint16_t pulselen = SERVOMIN; pulselen < SERVOMAX; pulselen++) {

  pwm.setPWM(servonum, 0, pulselen);

 }

 delay(500);

 for (uint16_t pulselen = SERVOMAX; pulselen > SERVOMIN; pulselen--) {

   pwm.setPWM(servonum, 0, pulselen);

 }

 delay(500);

 servonum ++;

 if (servonum > 15) servonum = 0;

}

5. Item result

Upload the code to the Inland UNO R3 development board. After success, we can control the rotation of the steering gear through PWM. The PCA9685 steering gear control module can control up to 16 steering gears at the same time, which is our best choice for robot projects.

With the holiday season in full swing, two things are sure to happen: 1) you'll want to do more holiday DIY projects, and 2) you won’t have time to do holiday DIY projects. Thankfully, the Neopixel Christmas ornament is a fantastic DIY project that won’t take long to put together. This is a simple project that requires minimal materials. We’ll be using a QTPy for its small size and will be powering the ornament via the USB port, but you can use almost any microcontroller and can power it with a battery if you’d prefer. It’s a great way to dip your feet into the CircuitPython ecosystem if you haven’t tried it out yet.

 What You’ll Need

Materials:

•  CircuitPython compatible Microcontroller (We chose Adafruit’s QTPy2040)
•  8x8 Neopixel Matrix
•  Power Supply (We’ll be using a USB cable, but a battery would work well)
•  Computer with a text editor (We used Notepad++ on Windows, but Mu is a more versatile option)
•  Programming cable (This varies depending on the microcontroller you use. For the QTPy, a USB-C cable was required.)
•  Hookup Wire

 Tools:

•  Soldering Iron and Solder
• Wirecutter and stripper
• 3D printer, laser cutter, or other method to manufacture a case
• Hot glue gun

How to Build Your Own Animated Ornament

CircuitPython Preparation

Start by downloading the most recent version of CircuitPython for your board. You can find it on the CircuitPython website. Next, hold the “boot” button on your microcontroller while plugging the microcontroller into your computer. You should see a new drive appear on your computer. Copy the CircuitPython file to the new drive and wait for it to reboot. After the microcontroller reboots you should see a handful of new files and directories.

Once CircuitPython has been installed you should see this file structure on your microcontroller.

 Next, download the appropriate set of libraries for the version of CircuitPython you are using. You can find them here. They’re listed as “bundles” for 6.x.x or 7.x.x. Copy and paste the file “neopixel.mpy” and the directory “adafruit_bus_device” into the root of the lib directory on your microcontroller.

We need two libraries, which should be placed in the “lib” directory of the microcontroller.

Wiring

Now that we have our IDE (Or Integrated Development Environment - basically, where the programming will be created) set up, we can wire up our ornament. We’ll need 3 wires to the matrix: Power (5v), GND, and data. We’ll be connecting power and ground directly to our QTPy. This usually isn’t the best practice, but it works for our project, as we won’t be driving the LEDs at full brightness and are not working with many LEDs. For projects with more LEDs or LEDs operating at full brightness, you may need an external power supply. The data wire can be connected to any digital output pin on the microcontroller. I chose D2, which is labeled “A2” on the QTPy. All the code samples provided below assume you are also using D2.

With only 3 wires, there’s no need to use protoboard for this project.

Programming

Plug your microcontroller into your computer and navigate to the CIRCUITPY drive. Open the “code.py” file in your text editor, and copy and paste the following code into the file. Save the file. Your microcontroller will reboot, and if everything has been done properly you should see a nice gradient from red to green on your LED matrix.

import board
import neopixel
 
pixels = neopixel.NeoPixel(board.D2, 64)
pixels[0] = (255, 255, 0)
for i in range(64):
         pixels[i] = (i/4, (64-i)/4, 0)

If everything is set up properly you should see a nice gradient like this

If your matrix doesn’t light up, check your connections. If you’re using a pin other than 2 on your board you will need to change “Board.D2” in line 4 to the pin you’ve chosen.

 Once we’re sure everything is working properly we can start drawing pictures. While it’s possible to draw an image in a program like Paint and display it on the matrix, I find it easier to create a matrix of RGB values by hand when working with small displays like this. The code below draws a simple Christmas tree with the image stored in an array named “image”:

import board
import neopixel
import time
image =[( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),(255,255, 0),(255,255, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),
( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),(255,255, 0),(255,255, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),
( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 0,255, 0),( 0,255, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),
( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 0,255, 0),( 0,255, 0),( 0,255, 0),( 0,255, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),
( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 0,255, 0),( 0,255,  0),( 0,255, 0),( 0,255, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),
( 0, 0, 0),( 0,255, 0),( 0,255, 0),( 0,255, 0),( 0,255, 0),( 0,255, 0),( 0,255, 0),( 0, 0, 0),
( 0, 0, 0),( 0,255, 0),( 0,255, 0),( 0,255, 0),( 0,255, 0),( 0,255, 0),( 0,255, 0),( 0, 0, 0),
( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),(177, 76, 36),(177, 76, 36),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0)]
 
pixels = neopixel.NeoPixel(board.D2, 64, brightness=0.05, auto_write=True)
 
for i in range(64):
         pixels[i] = image[i]

The array “image” in the above code defines this Christmas tree image

You can change the image that’s displayed by replacing or editing the “image” array. Here’s one that draws a snowflake:

 image =[( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 64, 64,255),( 64, 64,255),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),
( 0, 0, 0),( 64, 64,255),( 0, 0, 0),( 64, 64,255),( 64, 64,255),( 0, 0, 0),( 64, 64,255),( 0, 0, 0),
( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 64, 64,255),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 64, 64,255),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),
( 64, 64,255),( 64, 64,255),( 0, 0, 0),( 64, 64,255),( 64, 64,255),( 0, 0, 0),( 64, 64,255),( 64, 64,255),
( 64, 64,255),( 64, 64,255),( 0, 0, 0),( 64, 64,255),( 64, 64,255),( 0, 0, 0),( 64, 64,255),( 64, 64,255),
( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 64, 64,255),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 64, 64,255),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),
( 0, 0, 0),( 64, 64,255),( 0, 0, 0),( 64, 64,255),( 64, 64,255),( 0, 0, 0),( 64, 64,255),( 0, 0, 0),
( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 64, 64,255),( 64, 64,255),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0)]

The “image” array can easily be modified to define other figures, like this snowflake

The code is easy to understand, and can easily be expanded. For example, it can easily be modified to switch between two images as seen below:

import board
import neopixel
import time
tree =[( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),(255,255, 0),(255,255, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),
( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),(255,255, 0),(255,255, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),
( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 0,255, 0),( 0,255, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),
( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 0,255, 0),( 0,255, 0),( 0,255, 0),( 0,255, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),
( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 0,255, 0),( 0,255, 0),( 0,255, 0),( 0,255, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),
( 0, 0, 0),( 0,255, 0),( 0,255, 0),( 0,255, 0),( 0,255, 0),( 0,255, 0),( 0,255, 0),( 0, 0, 0),
( 0, 0, 0),( 0,255, 0),( 0,255, 0),( 0,255, 0),( 0,255, 0),( 0,255, 0),( 0,255, 0),( 0, 0, 0),
( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),(177, 76, 36),(177, 76, 36),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0)]
 
snowflake = [( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 64, 64,255),( 64, 64,255),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),
( 0, 0, 0),( 64, 64,255),( 0, 0, 0),( 64, 64,255),( 64, 64,255),( 0, 0, 0),( 64, 64,255),( 0, 0, 0),
( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 64, 64,255),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 64, 64,255),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),
( 64, 64,255),( 64, 64,255),( 0, 0, 0),( 64, 64,255),( 64, 64,255),( 0, 0, 0),( 64, 64,255),( 64, 64,255),
( 64, 64,255),( 64, 64,255),( 0, 0, 0),( 64, 64,255),( 64, 64,255),( 0, 0, 0),( 64, 64,255),( 64, 64,255),
( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 64, 64,255),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 64, 64,255),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),
( 0, 0, 0),( 64, 64,255),( 0, 0, 0),( 64, 64,255),( 64, 64,255),( 0, 0, 0),( 64, 64,255),( 0, 0, 0),
( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 64, 64,255),( 64, 64,255),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0),( 0, 0, 0)]
 
pixels = neopixel.NeoPixel(board.D2, 64, brightness=0.05, auto_write=True)
 
while True:
         for i in range(64):
       pixels[i] = tree[i]
         time.sleep(10)
         for i in range(64):
       pixels[i] = snowflake[i]
         time.sleep(10)

With some small changes, we can make an animated ornament

Closing it up

Now that we’ve assembled and programmed our ornament it’s time to put it in a case. We 3D printed a case using these files posted on Thingiverse. You could also use a laser cutter to build a box or make one from thick paper. Hot glue was used to hold everything in place, and the back pressed on without the need for glue. A bit of printer paper over the front can help diffuse the light and hide the circuit board, but we chose to leave ours exposed.

The case we used is a simple 2-piece design that offers plenty of room for a battery or larger microcontroller.

This quick project is a great way to add some extra light to your Christmas tree. With CircuitPython it’s easy to create dynamic lighting, and assembly is about as simple as it gets. The most time-consuming part is printing the enclosure, which took about 2.5 hours on an Ender 3 v2.

We’d love to see your ornaments and the images you come up with down below!

Looking for more Maker guides and ideas? We’ve got a full section dedicated to Maker as well as guides on How to Choose a 3D Printer, Understanding 3D Printer Filament Types, and New Projects for Old Raspberry Pis. And if you can’t find what you’re looking for, don’t hesitate to post a new discussion and the Community will be happy to help!

OctoPi

OctoPi is a Raspberry Pi-based print server for your 3D printer. It allows you to start prints from your web browser, monitor prints remotely, and easily create time lapses. It’s fantastically convenient, bypassing the need for an SD card reader every time I want to start a print. Plus, with remote monitoring, I don’t have to time long prints so I’ll be home for the whole print. If I see an issue with a print I can stop or pause it from my phone. If I want to create a timelapse I just have to click a few buttons.

 OctoPi requires very little peripheral hardware. Besides the 3D printer, you’ll need a USB cable to connect your Raspberry Pi to your printer. You’ll also need a power supply, and a USB or Raspberry Pi camera. Setup is very straightforward. Downloads and setup instructions can be found on OctoPrint’s website. OctoPi will run well on the Raspberry Pi 3 Model B, 3 Model B+, and 4 Model B. Other hardware like the 3 Model A and Zero W are not recommended. Learn how to create your own OctoPi setup with our helpful guide!

RetoPi

Gaming might seem like an unusual use case for older hardware, but some emulators run very well on earlier versions of the Raspberry Pi. You’ll be better off with a 4 Model B for mid-90s consoles, but the Raspberry Pi 3 Model B+ offers more than enough power for emulating 16- and 32-bit systems.

 Older versions of the Raspberry Pi shine in portable retro gaming systems, like the PiGrrl. Shoving a computer, power source, and screen into a small case can cause some serious thermal issues. The higher TDP of the Pi 4 Model B exasperates these issues. By choosing an older model you can reduce the amount of heat generated and prolong battery life.

There’s a wide range of peripheral hardware you can use in your retro gaming setup. Micro Center offers a wide range of retro gaming systems and accessories, many of which are based on the Raspberry Pi 3 Model B+. Check out this post for more information. Check out our RetroPi Guide here!

PiHole

PiHole is a network-wide ad and tracker blocker. It blocks ads on any device connected to your network, from desktop computers to smart fridges. Using a VPN allows you to connect to your home network while you’re using another network. This lets you keep using your PiHole when you’re connected to other networks.

 While an ethernet connection is preferable to WiFi for stability, PiHole runs well on any Raspberry Pi. I personally use a 3 Model B, but I have seen many reports of excellent performance with Pi Zeros as well as the original Raspberry Pi model B. PiHole can be installed on almost any single-board computer. It’s also fairly light on requirements - PiHole doesn’t need any peripheral hardware other than a power supply and a WiFi or Ethernet adapter for models without built-in networking. More information can be found on PiHole’s Website.

Media Server

Many popular media servers, like Plex or Kodi, can run on a Raspberry Pi. Plex has some more intense functions, like transcoding, and could require powerful CPUs. Thankfully, you can disable transcoding on your server. This will require you to be a bit more picky about the format of your media files, but it will allow you to set up a server that requires very minimal processing power. You can find some good information on avoiding transcoding while using Plex here. You’ll need a client like a smart TV or tablet to stream to, but no other peripheral hardware is needed.

 Unlike Plex, Kodi plays media directly on the Raspberry Pi, so there’s no need to worry about transcoding. You can find instructions on setting up Kodi on a Raspberry Pi in the Kodi wiki. You’ll need an HDMI cable to connect your Pi to your TV and a wireless keyboard, controller, or remote to navigate Kodi’s user interface. We also have a guide on how to set up a Kodi-based media server!

Security Cameras

There are a number of Raspberry Pi-based security camera solutions. Most allow you to use WiFi or Ethernet security cameras, or a Raspberry Pi camera or USB webcam connected directly to a Raspberry Pi. MotionEyeOS makes it easy to set up a security camera system that can be controlled from a web browser. It includes a motion detection module, so it will only record when something moves. Video and images can be uploaded automatically to Google Drive or another cloud storage solution, so you won’t need to worry about filling up your SD card or losing footage. All you’ll need is some cameras and a laptop to access the web-based user interface. For more information check out the project’s GitHub page.

Pi MusicBox

Older versions of the Raspberry Pi work very well for building a streaming music player. PiMusicBox allows you to stream music from Spotify, SoundCloud, or other cloud-based music sources. You can stream music from a device on your network, like your phone. It can also play music stored on a flash drive or SD card.

 PiMusicBox can be used to build a stationary music player in your house with an amplified speaker or can be turned into a portable music player. It will run on any Raspberry Pi, and can be integrated into almost any system. It doesn’t even need a monitor. Everything can be controlled from a web interface that has been tested with most browsers on desktops, iOS, and Android. It supports USB audio and is compatible with a number of Pi DAC HATs including those from HiFiBerry and IQAudio. More information and some example projects can be found here.

These projects are just a few of the options to utilize older Raspberry Pis. Most older projects will still run well on older hardware, as they were designed to work with the technology of the time. If none of the examples above pique your interest, you can look through older blog and forum posts to find projects you want to do. Whatever you do, don’t just throw those older Raspberry Pis in your parts box and forget about them. They’re still powerful single-board computers that can be put to use in a wide range of projects.

 Looking for more information about Raspberry Pi? We’ve got a Hobby Board section of the community, as well as Hobby Board guides like The Definitive Micro Computer Buying Guide, Raspberry Pi Basics, and How to Create a Retro Game Console with Raspberry Pi! And if you can’t find what you’re looking for, don’t hesitate to post a new discussion and the Community will be happy to help!

Privacy is an integral aspect of our lives, and yet privacy remains one of the most overlooked apects of internet usage. Whenever you do anything on your network, your ISP, or Internet Service Provider, can see what you're doing. The best way to browse the web privately is by installing a VPN onto your home network devices, including the Raspberry Pi. This can block anyone from seeing your web footprints left while browsing the internet.

What is a VPN?

VPN stands for (Virtual Private Network). A VPN hides your IP (Internet Protocol) address, so what you do online cannot be traced. They also allow you to mask your IP with an IP from a different country, granting you access to content from other countries that aren't available in your physical location. However, some VPNs can slow down internet speeds and cause connectivity issues. This is why it is important to make sure you select a VPN that is great for everyday use and won't limit your internet speeds. For that, we turn to NordVPN. NordVPN subscriptions support up to 6 devices, so once you install it on your Pi, you've got plenty left over for phones, tablets, and laptops!

How do I set up a VPN on Raspberry Pi?

First things first, you'll need to grab a copy of NordVPN. After you set up your NordVPN account, you'll need to image your Pi. This project requires Raspberry Pi OS to be installed on the device. For a full tutorial on how to do this, check out our How to set up a Raspberry Pi article. Once these initial steps are done, you are ready to start setting up NordVPN on the Pi.

• Begin by logging into your Pi via SSH with the command below. SSH allows you to remotely log into your PI remotely and gain access to the terminal. This gives you the ability to send system commands to the Pi to download programs and change system settings.

• Once you are logged in, you will need to download the NordVPN client for the Pi with the command below. This will take a moment while it downloads the files.

• Once it has been downloaded, you will need to log in to your account. Make sure you set up an account when purchasing the NordVPN code or subscription. You will use the command below and be prompted to enter your e-mail and password.

• Sometimes you may run into an error saying permission denied. To solve this, enter "usermod -aG nordvpn $user" and then reboot.

• After that, retry the login process, and it should finish setting up. You'll know it worked when you see "Welcome to NordVPN," as shown in the image below!

• To be able to log back into your VPN, you will need to whitelist or allow your device. You can do this by using the command below.

• After that, you are all set. Below you can see the command list to change settings on your VPN server.

Protected!

Now that you have your Raspberry Pi VPN is set up! This allows you to browse the web with confidence, knowing that your IP is masked through other nodes and you can't be directly traced. In addition, with the cities and countries commands, you can set your IP location to be anywhere you would like to have access to different types of content not available in your region. So have fun surfing the web securely and confidently!

More from the Micro Center Community:

Looking for more information about Raspberry Pi? We’ve got a Hobby Board section of the community, as well as Hobby Board guides like The Definitive Micro Computer Buying Guide, Raspberry Pi Basics, and How to Create a Retro Game Console with Raspberry Pi! And if you can’t find what you’re looking for, don’t hesitate to post a new discussion and the Community will be happy to help!

How often do you go to check Netflix to find your favorite movie and it's not on the site? don't you wish there was some way to take all the old DVDs lying around your house and watch them on any of your devices?

A Pi media server is just for you! With a Pi media server, you can take all of those old movies around your house and upload them to the server to watch from anywhere.

How Does a Raspberry Pi Media Server Work?

The server runs off a program called Kodi. Kodi is a media server application made for this purpose specifically. It runs on your Raspberry Pi via ethernet so you can easily plug it in and let it do its thing. You can then upload movies, songs, pictures, and TV shows to the server and view them from anywhere. It's like your own personal Netflix that you create!

What You Will Need to Set Up a Raspberry Pi Media Server

• Raspberry Pi (With ethernet port)
• Micro SD Card
• Micro SD card adapter
• An external display (like a monitor)
• KODI
• External Storage for movies/music/media

Setting up Kodi on your Pi

• Before starting up anything you'll need to make sure Raspberry Pi OS is installed on the Pi. We already have a great guide on how to do this here.

• Starting off you will need to download Kodi. You can do so by opening the terminal by hitting the terminal icon at the top of the screen and typing in the command: sudo apt-get install kodi

• Once you enter this command it may prompt you to say yes or no. Type "y" and push enter, and the command prompt will download Kodi for you. Once complete type "Kodi" into the command prompt and it will launch.

• Next, there are some settings you have to configure. Select the gear icon in the top left to access settings.

• Select "Services"

• Check the bubble on the right side for "Enable UPNP Support" to allow your server to be discoverable from other devices.

Setting Up Media Storage

• To set up a media server you will need an external storage device hooked up to your Pi. But first, you will need to Format so Hook the device up to your PC via USB.

• Next, you will right-click on the drive located in "This PC" and select "Format."

• Make sure that the External storage is set to file system FAT32, name the volume and press start to format the drive. Once formatted you can add your movies, photos, and music to the drive.

• Now we are going to identify the source for the library. Connect the drive to the Pi and select the gear icon again.

• Select Media

• Select the Library tab and under Manage Sources select the type of media you are trying to put on the server (videos, music, or pictures)

• Select Add Music...

• Once here select Browse.

• Now navigate to the USB drive by selecting navigating to Root filesystem/media/pi/ESD-USB.

• Once you get your attached storage device, select ok in the corner.

• Now that the storage drive is selected press ok. You have now identified your library! The next step, view your media from anywhere in the house.

Viewing your media

• Now that your library is identified, you will need to get other devices on your network to view it. In this case, I am using a Macbook Air with Kodi installed but you can do it with any device with Kodi. Go ahead and select the type of media you would like to view and hit Enter Files Section

• Select Add Videos...

• Select UPnP Devices

• And As long as you are on the same network as your Pi it should show up here!

• Now you can view all of your movies from any device as long as you have them in your server library from anywhere in your home. Enjoy your at-home custom streaming service.

More from the Micro Center Community:

Looking for more information about Raspberry Pi? We’ve got a Hobby Board section of the community, as well as Hobby Board guides like The Definitive Micro Computer Buying Guide, Raspberry Pi Basics, and How to Create a Retro Game Console With Raspberry Pi. And if you can’t find what you’re looking for, don’t hesitate to post a new discussion and the Community will be happy to help!

With its built-in camera, SD card reader, and wireless networking, the ESP32-Cam is a great option for a low-cost wireless camera.

What’s onboard the ESP32-Cam?

 The ESP32-Cam is based around an ESP32-s microcontroller. The ESP32-s microcontroller has WiFi, Bluetooth 4.2, and BLE built-in. The ESP32-Cam adds a small camera, Micro SD card reader, and breaks out several of the ESP32-s’s GPIO pins to convenient headers. The headers are spaced .1” apart, meaning they’re compatible with most breadboards and perma-proto boards.

 It features 16 PWM channels, which can be mapped to any GPIO pin. Peripherals can be connected via the hardware serial port on pins 1 and 3, or software serial on any pair of pins. There’s 2 mappable hardware I2C ports, one is used by the internal hardware, the other is available for adding sensors, output modules, or GPIO expanders. Softi2c can be used to add additional I2C ports if necessary. Pin 4 is connected to a bright white LED that can be used as a flash. There’s a built-in red LED on pin 33. This LED can be used to indicate something is happening or used as a “heartbeat” to show the module is powered on and running. I like to use it to indicate whether or not the module is connected to WiFi.

 Power can be provided via the ground and 3.3v or 5v pins, though many have found powering the ESP32-Cam with 3.3v leads to instability. I like to use a regulated 5v power supply, or a LiPo battery combined with a Power Boost 500 to provide power. The ESP32-Cam can be programmed via the Arduino IDE. It doesn’t have a USB port for programming, so you’ll need an FTDI adapter to upload your code to the microcontroller. I like this one from Inland.

Inland’s FTDI adapter allows you to upload code from the Arduino IDE to your ESP32-Cam

The ESP32-s has limited processing power. It can handle basic IO tasks and some light computing. For projects that involve processor-intensive operations like object detection, it's usually best to offload the image processing to a more powerful computer such as a Raspberry Pi. Full specs can be found in the table below.

The camera, SD card slot, and flash are on the top of the module

What can I do with the ESP32-Cam?

 The ESP32-Cam has a wide range of uses. Using a home automation program like Home Assistant you can easily build a low-cost home surveillance system based on these camera modules. The code needed for this project is included in the examples of the Arduino-esp32 library and is titled “CameraWebServer”. The arduino-esp32 library can be found on GitHub. You just need to add your WiFi network’s SSID and password to the code, upload the code via your FTDI programmer, and power on the module. Its small size makes it easy to hide the module, and the low power consumption eliminates the need for bulky batteries or power supplies.

 Thanks to its small size the ESP32-Cam can easily be integrated into a doorbell. Thingiverse user hoeby designed a 3D printable case that houses the camera module, a button, and has interchangeable backplates to angle the camera for framing. The .stl files and a link to the code can be found on the project’s Thingiverse page.

 With a little more work the ESP32 module can be set up to act as an access point. This allows you to connect your phone, tablet, or computer directly to the ESP32-Cam, and stream video to your device in areas where WiFi is not available. I’ve used this to set up remote cameras for field observations when WiFi is not available. I’m able to stream video straight to my computer and record it, or monitor the camera stream in real time.

Using up the ESP32-CAM

 When programming the module you’ll need to connect pin 0 to ground. After setting your FTDI programmer to 5v, connect the 5v and ground pins from the programmer to the 5v and ground pins on the module. Connect the RX pin on the programmer to GPOI 1, and the TX pin to GPIO 3. The diagram below shows the proper connections when using the Inland programmer. Select the proper COM port in the Arduino IDE and upload your code.

 One of the major limitations of the ESP32-s is range. There’s an antenna built into the printed circuit board that offers about 25 yards of range. An external antenna can extend the range up to 100 yards depending on the terrain. Attaching an external antenna requires a little bit of surface mount soldering, but with a pair of tweezers and a fine point soldering iron, it’s an easy process. It’s not strictly necessary to use the resistor, so if you damage or lose the resistor you can simply short the pads with a solder bridge.

A resistor or solder bridge is used to select the antenna. On the left, I have circled the default location of the resistor, which enables the internal antenna. On the right, I have circled the pads used to enable the external antenna. To the left of the pads is the antenna connector.

While the ESP32-Cam is designed to be used as a wireless camera, it can also be used as a general-purpose microcontroller. Other ESP32 based development boards offer more GPIO pins, but most have a larger footprint than the ESP32-Cam. This makes the ESP32-Cam an excellent choice for any project where space is at a premium and you don’t need many inputs or outputs, whether you need the camera or not. The built-in Micro SD card slot makes it excellent for data logging.

 The ESP32-Cam is a great way to add wireless cameras to your projects. For the cost of a Raspberry Pi compatible camera, you can get a camera module with built-in WiFi, Bluetooth, BLE, and a microcontroller. If you need a small ESP32 based microcontroller without a camera, you might find the ESP32-Cam is a good choice thanks to its small footprint. It’s easy to program, and with a little networking know how they can be used for a wide variety of projects. The ESP32-Cam is available in a 2 pack at your local Micro Center.

More from the Micro Center Community:

Looking for more information about micro controllers? We’ve got a Hobby Board section of the community,  as well as Hobby Board guides like How to Set Up a Raspberry Pi Media Server,  Raspberry Pi Basics, and How to Create a Retro Game Console With Raspberry Pi. And if you can’t find what you’re looking for, don’t hesitate to post a new discussion and the Community will be happy to help!

What You Will Need

• Raspberry Pi (Any Model)
• Micro USB Cable
• MicroSD Card
• Keyboard & Mouse (Wired)
• HDMI Cable (Micro HDMI on Pi 4)
• MicroSD card adapter or port
• PC or Mac
• Ethernet Cable (optional)

Setting Up The MicroSD Card

The MicroSD card is important for your Pi as it will house the Pi's operating system (OS), a necessity for almost everything you can do with Pi.

• Go to the Pi downloads page here, scroll down, and select the download link for your computer's OS.

• Once the installer has downloaded, go to your downloads and run the program. You will be prompted to select the OS you want to install. There are a lot of options, so it's helpful to know what you want to use your Pi for. If you're looking for a starter project, however, keep following along. We are going to download Raspberry Pi OS to turn our Pi into a mini-computer! We will do this by selecting "Raspberry Pi OS (32-bit)."

• Next, you will insert the MicroSD Card into your PC (Or SD card Adapter for MicroSD) and hit "chose storage" to select your card from the list. Once your card is selected, you can move on.

• Once you have the OS and storage selected, click on write, and the program will start to image the card!

Connecting The Pi

• Once the OS has been successfully written to the card, remove the MicroSD card from your PC and insert it into the Pi's Micro-SD card port.

• Next, connect your wired keyboard and mouse to the Raspberry Pi's USB ports.

• Next, we'll set up a display. If you have a Raspberry Pi 1, 2, or 3, you will connect to your display with HDMI. (Left Image) If you have a Raspberry Pi 4, you will connect with one of the two Mini HDMI ports. (Right Image) The Pi 4 supports up to two displays as well.

• Time for the internet! If you want your Pi to have access to the internet, you can hook it up via ethernet to this port. You can connect this to a wall ethernet port, router, or any other device that outputs ethernet.

• Last but certainly not least is power. You will need to connect the Pi to a USB wall adapter with a Micro-USB cable, just like charging a smartphone.

Going Through the Initial Setup

• When you plug in the Pi, this will display on your screen after boot up. Select next to begin

• Select your country, time zone, and language on this screen, then select next

• Next, you will select your password and confirm it. Once you confirm the password, you can select next to move on.

• This is a section unique to Pi set-up - the Pi is checking to make sure it is accurately filling the whole screen. Check if there is a black border around your screen. If it is surrounded by a black border, then check the box and push next.

• Select your Wifi network here and login if needed. If you don't want wifi or plan to use ethernet, select skip. Otherwise, push next after you selected your network.

• Your Pi is completely set up as a mini-computer! Now you can treat this as a small PC and use it for any purpose you need! But, before you do.....

You should put your Pi in a case!

Raspberry Pi's are functional motherboards, but they leave the components exposed. A case protects your Pi and its components from dust, falls, and other damage. A case also allows the user to install a fan if needed as some processes will require cooling.

Finding the Right Case

Pi cases are not hard to find but finding the right one is important. Not all Pis are the same size, and not all Pis have the same ports. Make sure to select the case your Pi needs. If you have a Raspberry Pi 4, you'll want to choose a case for the Pi 4. Also, keep in mind whether you intend to install fans, as some cases don't allow for this type of expansion.

Installing the Case

When installing the case, make sure the Pi sits evenly in the case and that the ports are correctly aligned with their cutouts. Once it is aligned correctly, the top half of the case will snap into place. If it does not, make sure the Pi is even with the bottom of the case. Some cases will require you to screw the top half in, while others will only require it to be snapped in.

Installed and Good to Go

Once you have your Pi screwed or snapped in, you are all set! Your Pi is now protected. You can switch your case at a later time to fit the look you want as there are many different designs. There are even some retro game console themes!

If you would like to see cases that Micro Center carries, click here. You might find something that fits your needs and style!

More from the Micro Center Community:

Looking for more information about Raspberry Pi? We’ve got a Hobby Board section of the community, as well as Hobby Board guides like The Definitive Micro Computer Buying Guide, Raspberry Pi Basics, and Using the Raspberry Pi Pico. And if you can’t find what you’re looking for, don’t hesitate to post a new discussion and the Community will be happy to help!

Have a 3-D printer at home but want to get more prints done throughout the day, even while you're out? Then this is the project for you. With your Pi, you can start and even monitor prints from anywhere.

This project runs off of a custom OS for the Pi called Octoprint OS. OctoPrint OS is an operating system specifically made for the remote 3-D printing server that runs on the Pi. Once set up, you can monitor temperatures, motion settings, terminal log, and even connect a webcam to monitor the print from anywhere. You can print from your laptop or even from your phone with the OctoApp Integration!

What you will need

• Raspberry Pi (3 or 4 works best)
• Raspberry Pi Power Supply (3A and 5V Min)
• Micro or Mini USB Cable
• Ethernet cable and access
• Webcam for monitoring (optional)
• 16Gb Micro SD
• Case for Pi (optional but recommended)
• Computer with Micro SD access

Imaging the SD Card

• In this project, a different OS is used than our other projects. While other projects just used Raspberry Pi OS, this project uses OctoPrint OS, a special image on the Raspberry Pi Imager that can be downloaded here.

• Once you have the Raspberry Pi Imager downloaded, launch it and select Choose OS. Scroll down to Other Specific Purpose OS.

• Next, select OctoPi and then select the top option (not the mirror)

• Next, you will insert the MicroSD Card into your PC (Or SD card Adapter for MicroSD), click "chose storage" and select your card from the list. Once your card is selected, you can move on.

• Once you have the OS and storage selected, click on write, and the program will start to image the card.

Connecting The Pi

• Once the OS has been successfully written to the card, remove the MicroSD card from your PC and insert it into the Pi's Micro-SD card port.

• Now for the server to work, it must be connected to ethernet. You can do that by connecting to this port. You can connect this to a wall ethernet port, router, or any other device that outputs ethernet. It is possible to set up OctoPrint over WiFi as well, though ethernet will allow for a more consistent connection.

• Now, for your Pi to connect to the printer you will need to locate your printer's data port. This could be a micro-USB port or, in this case below, a mini-USB port. Once you find this port and connect it to your Pi's USB port, your Pi will be able to communicate with your printer.

• Finally, the optional steps. It's recommended to have a case for the Pi. You can print one from Thingiverse or buy one here.

• You can also connect a Logitech webcam with USB to the Pi and position it in a way to monitor your prints. Using a webcam allows you to watch your print remotely, using OctoPrint live!

Setting Up OctoPrint

• To set up your OctoPrint, you will need to use a computer that is connected to the same network as your Pi and navigate to https://octopi.local where you will be greeted with the screen below. Below is the setup for OctoPrint. Click next to get started.

• Next, you will be on the access control page. Here, you will set up who can log in to your printer remotely if you are sharing it. You can set a generic username and password and then share that with others who want to access your computer.

• Once you finish that, you will be greeted with the Anonymous Usage Tracking page. Use this pick whether or not you want to send usage data to the developers to help correct bugs.

• Click next again, and you will be greeted with the Online Connectivity Check page. This will regularly check to ensure that your Pi is still connected to the internet. It is recommended to leave this enabled at the default 15 minutes.

• Now for the Plugin Blacklist page. This page is used to block possibly malicious plugins on the Pi. This is a good thing to keep activated, as it will allow you to add some plugins to your Pi without risking malware.

• And finally, the Printer Profile. You will need to get the information on your printer for this one. Make sure you know your build plate size and volume along with the temperatures you keep your prints at.

• Now just hit finish, position your webcam you plugged in, and your server is running. You can monitor your print progress, temperatures and even upload files to the SD card from your remote server. You'll need to be on the same network for now, but once you add a plugin to the printer, you can view it anywhere. Click on the wrench at the top of the screen to launch the settings and select Plugin Manager. From there, click Get More...

• You will see a screen to install new plugins. Type in OctoEverywhere to bring up the plugin and click install.

• Once installed, navigate to https://octoeverywhere.com/getstarted, and the setup wizard will walk you through the process of getting everything started for a fully remote server.

• Once you follow those steps, you'll be able to start and monitor prints from anywhere on the globe. So have fun starting your remote 3-D print experience!

More from the Micro Center Community:

Looking for more information about Raspberry Pi? We’ve got a Hobby Board section of the community, as well as Hobby Board guides like The Definitive Micro Computer Buying Guide, Raspberry Pi Basics, and How to set up a VPN on Raspberry Pi. And if you can’t find what you’re looking for, don’t hesitate to post a new discussion and the Community will be happy to help!

Once you have connected to your Pi and opened a terminal, run the following commands:

sudo rm -rf LCD-show

git clone https://github.com/goodtft/LCD-show.git

chmod -R 755 LCD-show

cd LCD-show/

sudo ./LCD35-show

If you just want to get your Inland TFT LCD Touchscreen Monitor up and working, after running these commands you should be good to go. If you want a breakdown of what each line does, read on:

 sudo rm -rf LCD-show     Remove the current driver. This command might fail, and that’s okay. It means the driver was never installed.

git clone https://github.com/goodtft/LCD-show.git   Clone a repository from GitHub to a local directory.

chmod -R 755 LCD-show   Change permissions for the directory we just created. 755 gives the owner full read/write/execute permission and all other users read/execute permission, and the -R flag applies the change to everything in the directory

cd LCD-show/  Navigate into the directory we created

sudo ./LCD35-show  Run the new driver for a 3.5” LCD screen

Some of these commands are prefaced with sudo. Sudo stands for “Super User Do”, which gives elevated permissions. It’s similar to running something as an administrator on Windows.

 This process only takes a few minutes and should get your Inland 3.5” TFT working. The driver we downloaded can be used for several other types of screens too. If you’re having trouble with a different screen, check out the readme at https://github.com/goodtft/LCD-show to see if your screen is supported. If it is, run the commands listed above and change sudo ./LCD35-show to the command listed in the readme under “Driver Install” for your screen.

If you have any other questions or concerns, please leave us a comment and we’ll be happy to help!

What You Will Need

• Raspberry PI (At least a Model 3 but a 4 Would be best)
• Micro SD card adapter
• Display
• Micro SD Card
• Game USB Controller
• PC to Image Micro-SD
• Case to Protect Pi (Optional)
• USB Storage Device for Games

How to Set Up the Micro SD

• First, you will have to download the Pi Imager here. This will convert your SD card into an Operating System (OS) for the Pi. Once you are here, select Choose OS.

• Once you are here, select Emulation and Game OS

• Select RetroPie From the options

• Then select the version of the Pi you are using. In this case, we are using the Raspberry Pi 4, so we will select RetroPie 4.7.1 (RPI 4/400)

• After that, you will select the SD card you have inserted into your PC so the program can Image it with your selected OS.

• Once you have everything selected, just hit Write, and the program will image the card.

How to Set Up Raspberry Pi for RetroPie

• Once you have your Micro-SD Card imaged, you will want to insert it into the Pi like in the image below.

• You'll also need to connect the rest of the cables. We've put together a great guide on how to do that here. Make sure you also plug the controller into one of the Pi USB ports (Shown Below)

• Once you have everything hooked up, power on the Pi, and you will be greeted with a string of text. This is the Pi configuring itself. Once this is complete, you will be greeted with the next step.

• Once the configuration is completed, you will then begin keybinding. Keybinding is the process of programming your input methods. In other words, establishing what happens when you press "up". Hold any button to start keybinding, and then press the corresponding button the screen shows on your controller.

How To Install Games on Raspberry Pi

• When it comes to games, there are two main different ways to get them we will go over. At Microcenter, we carry an Atari Micro SD Card which can be inserted into your pi and comes with over 100 licensed Atari games. This is a quick and easy way to get your Pi set up with these games. Information on how to get this micro sd card set up can be found here. If you'd rather find games you own from different consoles, you can also download specific games online.

• First, you need to insert a USB drive into the PC and format it. Older games are generally pretty small, so 16GB is most likely enough, but you can use any size. Next, you will right-click on the drive in This PC and click format. Make sure the file system is Fat32 and label the volume "RetroPie," and create a folder on the drive named RetroPie.

• When complete, you will then insert the flash drive into the Pi so it can boot up. Once booted up, turn off the Pi and put the flash drive back into your PC, and you will see the files below. Navigate to the roms folder

• Once there, you will select the system your ROM is on. In our case, we have Pac-Man on the Atari 2600, so we will select that.

• Next, drag and drop the ROM you downloaded into the correct system folder and remove the drive.

• Finally, insert the flash drive, and you will be greeted with this screen, and you should see however many games you downloaded are available and their consoles.

• After selecting your console, you should see the games you downloaded. Just select, and you are good to go!

• You can now play your retro games. Enjoy this blast from the past as you can play hundreds of games on your Pi right from your living room!

More from the Micro Center Community:

Looking for more information about Raspberry Pi? We’ve got a Hobby Board section of the community, as well as Hobby Board guides like The Definitive Micro Computer Buying Guide, Raspberry Pi Basics, and Installing the latest RetroPie Image with the Atari Games Card. And if you can’t find what you’re looking for, don’t hesitate to post a new discussion and the Community will be happy to help!

When you first plug in the controller most emulators will try to automatically configure the controller. RetroArch did pretty well for me, but I wanted to reverse the start and select buttons. I decided to remap all my controls just to be sure I knew which buttons were which. From the RetroArch home screen, scroll to “Settings” and select “Input”.

Towards the bottom of the page you should see a set of “Port Controls”.

Select “Port 1 controls” then select “Set All Controls” (or “Bind All”, depending on the operating system you’re using). This will open a series of pop ups that will let you set the controls you want to use. Press the button or push the joystick in the direction listed. If you want to skip a control, wait for it to time out and move on to the next control. Repeat this for each controller. The Fight Stick acts as 2 controllers, so I had to repeat the mapping for the second joystick and set of buttons.

Even though there are 2 controllers, some multiplayer games only use one. For multiplayer alternating games (like Asteroids) you’ll only use one set of controls. For multiplayer simultaneous games (like Space Duel) you’ll use both sets of controls.

The next setting we need to look at is the mouse index. If your track ball is connected but not working in games that supports a trackball, this setting is probably your problem. The trackball is seen by your computer as a mouse. Each mouse connected to your computer has an index associated with it. We need to tell the emulator which mouse index to listen to. This setting defaults to 0 in RetroArch, so try setting it to something else if the trackball isn’t working. From my testing it seems 0 and 1 tend to work with RetroArch on Windows 10, and 0 and 2 tend to work with RetroArch on RetroPie. This might vary depending on your set up, so try some different settings if it doesn’t work. Also, keep in mind mouse indexes can change based on the order devices were connected, so if you unplug the trackball, plug in another mouse, and plug the trackball back in you’ll probably need to change this setting again.

Now we need to save our configuration file. In RetroArch, go back to the main menu, select “Configuration File”, then select “Save Current Configuration”. The changes you’ve made will be written to the configuration file. You’ll need to do this any time you make a change like remapping controls or changing a mouse index.

Properly configuring your controller will fix most issues you may encounter with the Dual Fight Stick and trackball. However, some games and emulators aren’t compatible with trackballs or spinners. If you’re unable to get your trackball working in a particular game, try loading up something that’s known to work. If the trackball works with a known game and emulator the issue is most likely with the game, not the hardware or configuration. Sometimes a device will recognize the trackball, but not as a valid controller for games. For example, you can use the trackball to scroll through menus on a PlayStation 3 but none of the games I tested used the trackball as an input. In general, if you can use a mouse for input you'll be able to use a trackball. 

Hopefully this is helpful for anyone who is having issues getting their Fight Stick or trackball working properly. Feel free to post any questions you may have and I'll do my best to help!

One photo not enough? How about a full 3D tour?

Presenting the Raspberry Pi Store-in-a-Store, now ready for visiting in our Dallas Micro Center! We've set up a brand new Raspberry Pi experience to showcase all that Raspberry Pi has to offer. From Pi Desktop Kits to standalone units, it's all readily available. And if you're new to the Raspberry Pi space, we even have demo units set up running Pi OS so you can get see what Pi can do!

Raspberry Pi is known for creating easy to use programming and home computer tools, and there's no easier way to see what Pi can do than at Micro Center's Raspberry Pi Store-In-A-Store, now at our Dallas Store!

Want a $150 gift card to start your Raspberry Pi journey? We've got one to give away to Raspberry Pi fans! Sure, you can get one entry into the raffle but just signing up, but if you take a selfie in any of our store's DIY departments, you'll earn a whopping fifteen extra entries!

Enter here: https://gleam.io/GveNI/raspberry-pi-store-within-a-store-giveaway

Unlike a single board computer (which is a full computer with an operating system, video capability, and often interfaces like USB), a microcontroller executes a single piece of code and most often interfaces with other hardware via General Purpose Input/Output pins (or GPIOs), serial, and analog to digital converters (or ADCs). Some microcontrollers feature USB connectivity, but some do not. Microcontrollers don't have an operating system.

This board features 26 GPIO pins (of which three may be used as analog inputs), 2xSPI, 2xI3C, 2xUART, a serial debug port, and 16 PWM channels. The board is designed to use 20 header pins on each side of the board. The holes are castellated, allowing the module to be soldered directly to a PCB. The pins are laid out in a DIP format, making it easy to connect to a breadboard. Headers are not included with the module.  It uses 3.3v logic and can be powered via USB or a 1.8 to 5.5v power supply connected to VSYS.

A unique feature of this microcontroller is the chip itself, which has been designed by Raspberry Pi. Dubbed the RP2040, this chip features two ARM Cortex M0+ cores running at up to 133 MHz, 264kB of SRAM and 2MB onboard flash, support for up to 30 GPIO pins (though only 26 are used on the Pico), a four-channel 12 bit ADC, SPI, I2C, and UART, and USB 1.1 host and device support. The Pico is currently the only board using Raspberry Pi's silicon, but we will likely see more in the future.

The Raspberry Pi Pico is compatible with MicroPython and C/C++ with Raspberry Pi's C SDK or VSCode. It is not compatible with Adafruit's CircuitPython or the Arduino IDE.

The Raspberry Pi Pico is excellent for a wide range of microcontroller projects. Beyond leveraging the GPIOs and ADCs in projects like light controllers and automated plant watering systems, the wide range of serial connectivity opens up the possibility of connecting a vast range of sensors, displays, and other I/O devices. UART can be used for MIDI, allowing the Pico to be used in MIDI controllers and sequencers. Since the Pico has USB 1.1 capability, it can send keystrokes from a mechanical keyboard or macro keypad.

The Raspberry Pi Pico's MSRP is $4.00, just below the $5.00 MSRP of the Raspberry Pi Zero. It's available in store now. 

We can't wait to see what you make with yours- be sure to post your projects to our community! And check out the Pico Micro Center store page, and keep an eye on these forums for Pico project ideas!