Why does my computer not boot into windows on the first boot?
Answers
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On the first time does it POST? and do you get an error, or do you not even see a splash screen?
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Sounds like you've developed a cold boot issue or it could be an S4 issue. Disable fast startup and see if that solves it first.
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@Vaganza I’m not entirely sure what POST is but I’m not getting any video output at all so no splash screen, fans and their lights turn on but afaik nothing else. After researching POST I notice lights on my MB that I don’t believe were there when it booted normally, but I’m not sure. So I’ll add a photo@PowerSpec_MikeW I’m not sure what a cold boot issue or an S4 issue is, but fast startup has been and still is disabled. I thing Vaganza could be on to something though so I recommend reading my response to them.
Also I should mention that I’ve had a MB issue before where it would boot into UEFI first, and replacing the CMOS battery fixed it, despite my computer being only like a year and a half old. Also, it seems to have changed where it doesn’t always boot second time around, sometimes it booted immediately, others like 3 or 4 tries. Currently I’ve tried booting like 10 times with no response, so I’m actually nervous it stopped booting normally at all. -
What motherboard is it? I doubt it has debug LEDs, but with ASUS the power LED should flash a pattern to tell you what the issue is if it hangs on POST.
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@PowerSpec_MikeW it is the same MB that comes with the g509. After looking it up that appears to be the ASUS Prime B550M-A/AC System Board. I also realize that the lights I pointed at in the photo are still on even when the computer is off. If you are referring to the led next to the power button on the case, it stays solid the whole time.
EDIT: So I had a power outage just now, and afterwards the computer booted up into the OS properly, but I don’t think the power outage is what fixed it as I tried flipping the PSU switch on the pc multiple times, so I think it just got out of a long boot fail loop as mentioned earlier. While my pc is working, is there anything you suggest I try before shutting down to see if it is fixed? -
Sorry about that, forgot that you mentioned the model in the original post. I believe those LED's are just standby power. The remain on after the system powers on? Is the power LED solid immediately or does it go solid after 5-10 seconds?
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@PowerSpec_MikeW sorry, I edited my comment just as you made your most recent comment, I suggest reading that. And yes, those LEDs were just standby power, it remained on as long as my power supply wasn’t flipped off. I believe the power button LED went on immediately but am not sure and don’t want to check until I know I should shutdown my computer again to see if any solutions applied while it is still on fixes the weird booting.
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Read about the power outage and that isn't surprising. From an elevated command prompt type: powercfg /a
Please let us know what you see.
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@PowerSpec_MikeW this is what I got
Administrator Command Prompt
Microsoft Windows [Version 10.0.19044.2965]
(c) Microsoft Corporation. All rights reserved.
C: \windows\system32>powercfg /a
The following sleep states are available on this system:
Standby (S3)
Hibernate
Hybrid Sleep
The following sleep states are not available on this system:
Standby (S1)
The system firmware does not support this standby state.
Standby (S2)
The system firmware does not support this standby state.
Standby (S0 Low Power Idle)
The system firmware does not support this standby state.
Fast Startup
This action is disabled in the current system policy.
Thoughts?
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Kill the hibernate and see if the problem persists: powercfg /h off
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@PowerSpec_MikeW disabling hibernate did not solve the solution. I have found out though, that for some reason, the power outages solve the solution and get the computer to boot. I figured this out by when it wouldnt boot after killing hibernate, I unplugged the power cable to the computer while it was failing to boot (as painful as it was). When I do this, only then will it boot into windows on the next boot. This surprised me, as I tried beforehand to flip the PSU switch then unplug the power cable, but that didnt work, even if it was done while the pc was on. Why would only unplugging the power cable while it is on cause the PC to boot correctly on the next boot?
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Sounds like the power supply wasn't unplugged log enough to fully discharge. How long was it unplugged?
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@PowerSpec_MikeW I dont know, at most like 3 minutes, but turns out the after the second power cable unplugging, it seems the action doesnt have to be repeated again to boot into OS normally. Quite strange, do you know what caused this, how it was fixed, and how it could be prevented from happening again? Ill let you know if it does. Thanks for the help!
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Unclear, but clearing caps seems to resolve it at least temporarily. I've used that board this year and we've built several models with it since the G509 and I haven't seen an issue like that. When you replaced the CMOS battery, did you load the DOCP/XMP profile for your memory?
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@PowerSpec_MikeW as far as I remember, all I did was replace the uefi settings back to what I believe it originally was (I believe all i had to change was fast boot > disabled). I believe l don’t overclock at a uefi level, just with Msi afterburner at the OS level.
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Check your RAM in task manager. Is the memory operating at 2666?
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@PowerSpec_MikeW The issue came back again after a couple of days. I will attach a photo of my ram in task manager, but yes, it is at 2666mhz, which is what the motherboards normal clock is i believe as it is what the G509 comes with (or at least when I got it). I have upgraded the ram though, same speed obviously just 32gb now.
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Factory RAM was 2666. It's always possible to have issues with certain kits and 'cold boot' issues can be caused by memory, but it doesn't make sense for it to start all of a sudden like this. Is the PC connected via ethernet? Lets try some experiments.
- Disconnect ethernet if applicable when you shut the PC down. Reconnect it after the PC boots into windows.
- After that, lets try just unplugging power from the system when it's shutdown. Reconnect it and see if the issue persists .
What memory do you have installed now?
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@PoweSpec_MikeW The issue once again went away before I did this, but I did it anyways. I planned to wait a week or two before responding again, because it seemed like now the issue was just being fixed for a while then randomly coming back. But what brings me back here is that this time, I was using my pc like normal, and decided to update it (windows 10 still). The issue came back when the pc restarted to apply update (oh god). I don’t know if I was extremely unlucky for it to come back then or if it was instigated by the update. Either way, I’m scared to do the solution of unplugging the computer because it’s supposed to be applying the update, and I don’t want anything broken. Any ideas? Also, wasn’t there a built in windows memory scanner tool that detects problems with ram? Do you think I should test it once I get the update figured out?
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If it restarted to apply the update, then turning it off and on shouldn't make a difference. It'll do some of the installation before the shutdown, then it continues on the startup.
If RAM was the issue, there should be some indication of an instability, rather than just an intermittent boot issue. You also mentioned early in the post and I missed this at first. When you power it on, the fans spin but the board doesn't seem to power on and showed the LED indicating standby power. That points more towards a power supply issue. More specifically an issue with the 12V rail. 5V works fine, your fans power on, but the 12V doesn't and the board remains in standby mode. Explains why powering it off for a while, like during the power outage corrects the issue.
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@PowerSpec_MikeW You were right about the update, nothing got corrupted. I think you are right about the power supply being the issue… but what would be the solution then? Do I need to replace the whole PSU? If so, should I get the same one that came with the pc? Would getting a better one help with performance and stability? Is my current PSU fully Modular so I only have to remove the current PSU and use the same cables on the new one, or would it been more complex to replace?
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You would want to replace it. 650W is more than enough, that system draws about half that under a max load stress test. As for the modular cables, I would always use the cables that came with the PSU. Modular cables are not standardized and the pinout can vary by manufacturer. Do you have an extended warranty on the system?
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@PowerSpec_MikeW Warranty ended a while back. Are you suggesting get the same exact PSU that came with the system or a new one with the same ratings? If I should get the same one, wouldn’t the cables it comes with all be the same, and therefore I can use the ones preinstalled or no? And if I should get a different with the same ratings, can you link me to a high quality one you recommend that is compatible with the G509 parts? I’m hoping cable switching isn’t too hard because the most I’ve opened up my pc is taking out gpu or upgrading ram, but I’m guessing id probably take everything out for a PSU replacement.
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If it's the exact same PSU then you can keep the modular cables in place.
If you're looking for another unit in that category the EVGA SuperNOVA 650 GT in that power range is a solid choice: https://www.microcenter.com/product/624775/evga-supernova-650-gt-650-watt-80-plus-gold-atx-fully-modular-power-supply
Shouldn't be a problem installing it. Cable management can be a little difficult, but the PSU being fully modular certainly helps. You can run the CPU 8 pin behind the motherboard tray, the 24 pin can't run behind the back of the chassis, it's too thick. I'd tie it up similarly to what we did.
Power supplies tend to be about the quality level and the manufacturer that produced the unit. Generally for most major brands you know like EVGA, Corsair, Thermaltake, ect. They don't manufacturer the power supplies, they're built by a third party to specification. And the manufacturer can change along the way, sometimes with very minor model number differences.
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@PowerSpec_MikeW I have ordered the PSU you linked, and am waiting for it to arrive. Also, the PSU you linked is rated gold, and it seems my current one is rated bronze, does this mean that the new one should theoretically be more high quality and stable? When the PSU arrives, I'll probably have one of my friends, who enjoys building computers, come over to help. I'll keep you updated on that. While I wait, I have noticed that the case LED light next to the powerbutton is blinking red along with its typical white. I am guessing this could be related? I tried researching but when I try to find what the case is called I get a 404 page not found when trying to pull up the G509 on the website, its probably not available anymore.
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Both should be perfectly stable, the Gold rated power supply will be more efficient. Less loss in the conversion from AC to DC, it'll use less power to accomplish the same goal.
The G509 is end of life. This is the LED next to the power LED?
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@PowerSpec_MikeW Yes, the LED next to the power button on top of the case blinks red and white. I have also noticed that it’s doing this when the computer has booted normally, but when I get the boot issue this post is originally about, the LED is it’s normal white. I’m guessing this could be related? Though it would make more sense if it were be reversed where the red blinking would be when it doesn’t boot, and normal white when it does. Also, the red blinking has a weird pattern shown in the linked video https://imgur.com/a/QRwlh4Z . If it’s hard to see with the LED look in the headphone Jack.
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Can't see anything in the video, but I would assume it's an indication of drive activity. Doesn't happen when you have the boot issue because there isn't any since the system doesn't POST.
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@PowerSpec_MikeW What is drive activity? It sounds like it’s just an indication that drivers are working properly. But normally it’s solid white. Is drive activity a good or a bad thing? If it’s a bad thing how can I fix it?
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It just means your main drive is being accessed. It's normal if you're computer is running.
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